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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penn T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade V
FA: Unknown. Dick WIlliams states it was in the 1950's
Page Views: 1,934 total · 33/month
Shared By: tommyvsmith on Nov 17, 2013 with updates from David Kerkeslager
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

At the top of the boulder, follow the diagonal crack on your left up to a ledge. Then go left on the ledge up to another crack, heading up and left, and follow it to a roof. Traverse left into a right-facing dihedral and then head for the top, traversing around the roof.

Location

Start as for Harvard, but don't go back into chimney. The quickest descent is by Crimson Corner immediately to the left but if you are uncomfortable with a 5.1 down-solo, you may walk further left to the easier and more secure Uberfall Descent.

As of 8/15/2018 there are no rap anchors on this route or the immediately accessible routes.

Protection

Standard rack. Be careful of a loose block about half way up.

Photos

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Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The Radcliffe Walk-off is a lot of fun. No harder than the Uberfall.

Spoiler Alert: There's a big inset block about 2/3 of the way up (just above a pin) that is loose. I don't think it will ever come out but it'll certainly get your attention when it rocks forward 1/2". Oct 8, 2014
I really liked this route. I think it deserves to be in bold (i.e. recommended) in the grey Dick book. But I also agree with Swain's rating of 6+ for the pitch. May 25, 2015
Ben Hoste
Tucson, AZ
 
Ben Hoste   Tucson, AZ
 
As of 5/2017 there is a stuck cam above the loose block. Fun climb. Wish it was longer. May 12, 2017
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6
I second Gunkiemike on this. This is a really nice route that deserves much more attention. It felt on the serious side of the grade, so 5.6+ would be well deserved. While short, the route keeps delivering almost all the way up with what I felt like four consecutive cruxes of interesting, though similar, high step moves over steep bulges. Jun 11, 2018
Luke Andraka
Boston, MA
 
Luke Andraka   Boston, MA
 
Climbed this last wednesday, loose block is on its way out, was unaware of it and came very close to pulling it out. Stay safe kids Jun 28, 2018
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.7
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.7
That loose block is enormous and terrifying. I thought the comments here and in the guidebook were referring to a much smaller obvious loose block down low, so I wasn't ready for THE loose block. It seemed to big to fail, so I pulled on it and scared myself. There are nice crimps and big feet about 5 feet right of the loose block which I used to bypass it, but there's no pro over there and it's definitely hard moves for 5.6. Maybe this warrants a PG13 rating until some unfortunate soul pulls out the loose block?

Otherwise it's a great, well-protected pitch, with interesting moves, that doesn't let up. At 5'10" I found the initial crux stiff for 5.6, and my shorter partners found the initial crux much harder than I did, so I'm comfortable calling this 5.7. Aug 15, 2018

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