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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: John Hudson, 1965
Page Views: 2,422 total, 25/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 31, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Under-cling up left until you can reach up right over the roof.

There are two cruxes. The first one is the embarrassment of flailing and swinging into innocent passers-by. The second is knowing how to stop the endless line of not-so-innocent passers-by who ask for a try.

Life is short, so throw as many heel hooks as you can.

Location

This is the giant overhang just past the Uberfall, and right before the Suzie A block. It starts right behind the big rescue equipment box.

Protection

This route is most commonly top-roped. As the name suggests, it can be bouldered. Taller stuff has been, but I wouldn't want to fall off near the top.

For leading, there is a fixed pin right before the lip of the roof, and other gear is available (can be strenuous to place).

It is important to consider the effects of either a fall or the swing from TR into passing foot traffic.

Photos

Systematic  
 
Pin present 9/30/17. Hard to see and clip. It held. Can be backed up with a microcam in a slightly flaring crack about 10" below it. Sep 30, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
Pin was still there, though hard to spot, on 10-25-14 Oct 26, 2014
Daniel Affsprung
New Paltz, NY
Daniel Affsprung   New Paltz, NY
I didn't see the pin there today 8/27/2014. Fun climbing though Aug 27, 2014
kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
It's a bit rusty and questionable looking, but pin was still there on 6/29/2014. Jun 30, 2014