Type: Trad, TR
FA: John Hudson, 1965
Page Views: 2,595 total · 24/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 31, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Under-cling up left until you can reach up right over the roof.

There are two cruxes. The first one is the embarrassment of flailing and swinging into innocent passers-by. The second is knowing how to stop the endless line of not-so-innocent passers-by who ask for a try.

Life is short, so throw as many heel hooks as you can.

Location

This is the giant overhang just past the Uberfall, and right before the Suzie A block. It starts right behind the big rescue equipment box.

Protection

This route is most commonly top-roped. As the name suggests, it can be bouldered. Taller stuff has been, but I wouldn't want to fall off near the top.

For leading, there is a fixed pin right before the lip of the roof, and other gear is available (can be strenuous to place).

It is important to consider the effects of either a fall or the swing from TR into passing foot traffic.

Photos

It's a bit rusty and questionable looking, but pin was still there on 6/29/2014. Jun 30, 2014
Daniel Affsprung
Hanover, NH
Daniel Affsprung   Hanover, NH
I didn't see the pin there today 8/27/2014. Fun climbing though Aug 27, 2014
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
Pin was still there, though hard to spot, on 10-25-14 Oct 26, 2014
Systematic  
 
Pin present 9/30/17. Hard to see and clip. It held. Can be backed up with a microcam in a slightly flaring crack about 10" below it. Sep 30, 2017