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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Early 1960s: Bob Gilmore
Page Views: 1,709 total, 15/month
Shared By: Michael G on Jul 19, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Climb the face 10' left of Laurel up to (crux) and past a bulge, then step left and up crack to chain anchors. The arete to the left, or any section of Laurel, are "off". The tough crux is pretty much right off the ground.

Location

The face left of Laurel, in the Uberfall area of the Trapps.

Protection

No pro to protect early moves. You can TR using Laurel's chain anchors and a directional.

Photos

Steven Scherr
Boston
 
Steven Scherr   Boston
 
Im not tall enough to reach the crimp from the stable lower foot holds, and this move felt harder than anything on Coronary next door which is mid 5.10. Pretty much standard for gunks 9+. Jul 23, 2017
JSH

JSH    
Thanks for the note, Jay. I'm 5'6+" with a negative ape index, and .... yeah, harder than 5.9. Nov 6, 2014
Jay Harrison
  5.10b R
Jay Harrison  
  5.10b R
Historical Footnote: Bob Gilmore is 5'9", which makes that reach pretty desperate...but he has a mythological wingspan of 6'6", putting that key crimp well within his grasp.
Better known for his FA of The Sliding Board with Willie Crowther, Bob also explored a few Adirondack crags back in the day. Nov 6, 2014
kenr  
Interesting crux sequence. Worthwhile as top-rope with directional from Laurel anchor bolts.
(Not surprisingly, much more difficult if much shorter than 5ft7in / 170cm with normal reach.) Jul 19, 2014
Brandon S
Weehawken, NJ
Brandon S   Weehawken, NJ
I agree with the "one move wonder" comments regarding difficulty. But the climb has great movement throughout. Definitely a worthwhile climb. Oct 30, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
One move wonder. It's a technical, balancey move particularly for a shorty. Once you make the move the climb backs way down. Sep 22, 2012
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
 
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
 
I think this route is kind of a one move wonder, and that one move is really hard. The rest of the route is 5.7 at best. The bottom (hard part) is interesting enough. Apr 18, 2011