Harvard

Climbed this for the first time this year. It's a bit of a novelty running up behind the big boulder. Not exposed, probably good for bringing a newb up on his first climb. It's harder than a 5.2 as you ascend the 2nd chimney to the top. Walk off. May 8, 2012

Don't think this is a good climb for a new leader. A couple of awkward moves, ok gear, but almost a guarantee of rope drag. Other than the initial move through the slot, nothing exciting. Aug 14, 2012

A bit claustrophobic at the bottom. If you like spiders, this climb is for you! Oct 17, 2013

Brought a newb up this on Sunday. It was his first and last climb. He left the cliff immediately. Guess it's not a good climb for a newb. Jun 9, 2014

The actual rout goes BEHIND the boulder, going up the face is considerably more difficult. May 13, 2015

Beginning is definitely a 5.2 of chimney climbing. Once past that it's definitely 5.4 like the guide suggests. Would take the optional belay before the larger chimney towards the top as zig-zagging protection is inevitable and brings a lot of drag for the leftward traverse at the top.

Maybe not the best way to expose your newbie friends to the wonders of trad climbing, but for those who have done a couple pitches and love stemming and mantling this is the climb for them.

Tons of spiders, but whatever, it's one hell of an adventure and totally worth doing when everything else is taken.

Keep left of the protruding flake then mount on top and mantle up to the ledge to the right. Once up there go left above the roof. Tons of trees to anchor up.

My buddy led it after me and went right and went into the chimney behind "Trapped Like a Rat" which might have worsen the already strong rope drag. Jul 24, 2017

After walking past Harvard many times, I saw a great photo of the climb on the GATrapps Gallery and climbed it. I really liked it! The short route offers short bursts of moves in a chimney, with hand jams, with shoulder scumming and finally with stemming past an overhang. Doing all this on one short pitch is a lot of fun. For me, the hardest move was the last but this move was the easiest to protect from below. As the route is not airy or committing, I can understand the low rating given that Harvard is in the Gunks, BUT excepting those shortfalls, this route is much better than the mixed tenor of the prior comments suggest. Sep 5, 2017

This was my one of my first leads. Rope drag was insane. The "big flake thing" was the site of my first long, thoughtful consideration of terror as I stood atop the flake wondering how to mantle onto the ledge above. I made it out alright, and this climb lives on fondly in my memory ever since.

Contrary to what Live Perched said, that move off the flake is VERY committing if you're a 5.4 leader.

Nowadays what I'd do is solo the initial chimney (very secure 5.1), then have my belayer pass up the rope and tie in atop the block to avoid rope drag. If you're comfortable with this I'd recommend it. Jul 24, 2018