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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penn T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: George Evans and Robert Grae, 1953
Page Views: 3,910 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

From the boulder, weasel your way up the wide crack/squeeze chimney into the corner. Continue up the corner/chimney, past the big flake thing sticking out of the corner, to the top.

Location

In a large, left-facing corner -- to the right from Crimson Corner. Look for a boulder leaning against the left face of the corner, with a wide crack splitting an overhang above.

To descend, walk off left via the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

a light rack, no anchors

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Climbed this for the first time this year. It's a bit of a novelty running up behind the big boulder. Not exposed, probably good for bringing a newb up on his first climb. It's harder than a 5.2 as you ascend the 2nd chimney to the top. Walk off. May 8, 2012
Don't think this is a good climb for a new leader. A couple of awkward moves, ok gear, but almost a guarantee of rope drag. Other than the initial move through the slot, nothing exciting. Aug 14, 2012
K Swissto
Denver, CO
 
K Swissto   Denver, CO
 
A bit claustrophobic at the bottom. If you like spiders, this climb is for you! Oct 17, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Brought a newb up this on Sunday. It was his first and last climb. He left the cliff immediately. Guess it's not a good climb for a newb. Jun 9, 2014
The actual rout goes BEHIND the boulder, going up the face is considerably more difficult. May 13, 2015
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
Beginning is definitely a 5.2 of chimney climbing. Once past that it's definitely 5.4 like the guide suggests. Would take the optional belay before the larger chimney towards the top as zig-zagging protection is inevitable and brings a lot of drag for the leftward traverse at the top.

Maybe not the best way to expose your newbie friends to the wonders of trad climbing, but for those who have done a couple pitches and love stemming and mantling this is the climb for them.

Tons of spiders, but whatever, it's one hell of an adventure and totally worth doing when everything else is taken.

Keep left of the protruding flake then mount on top and mantle up to the ledge to the right. Once up there go left above the roof. Tons of trees to anchor up.

My buddy led it after me and went right and went into the chimney behind "Trapped Like a Rat" which might have worsen the already strong rope drag. Jul 24, 2017
Live Perched
  5.4
Live Perched  
  5.4
After walking past Harvard many times, I saw a great photo of the climb on the GATrapps Gallery and climbed it. I really liked it! The short route offers short bursts of moves in a chimney, with hand jams, with shoulder scumming and finally with stemming past an overhang. Doing all this on one short pitch is a lot of fun. For me, the hardest move was the last but this move was the easiest to protect from below. As the route is not airy or committing, I can understand the low rating given that Harvard is in the Gunks, BUT excepting those shortfalls, this route is much better than the mixed tenor of the prior comments suggest. Sep 5, 2017
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.4
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.4
This was my one of my first leads. Rope drag was insane. The "big flake thing" was the site of my first long, thoughtful consideration of terror as I stood atop the flake wondering how to mantle onto the ledge above. I made it out alright, and this climb lives on fondly in my memory ever since.

Contrary to what Live Perched said, that move off the flake is VERY committing if you're a 5.4 leader.

Nowadays what I'd do is solo the initial chimney (very secure 5.1), then have my belayer pass up the rope and tie in atop the block to avoid rope drag. If you're comfortable with this I'd recommend it. Jul 24, 2018
Daniel Jump  
 
This was an interesting route that I was afraid might feel contrived, but the flake and the moves after that to the top make it worth the work. And since it is sort of a strange climb and logistically a bit intimidating, I suspect it's not climbed that much and so might be a good option when the crag is busy.

Rope management here is a challenge, and I think I found a pretty good way to handle it. I got roped up with my partner on the ground and soloed the cave and the boulder that leads to a very spacious ledge. I pulled the rope up to the ledge, and set up a quick alpine style belay for my second. He is a strong climber at 5.4, but I didn't like the idea of not protecting him for the boulder that leads to the ledge, which might be a tricky for some climbers. I placed a bomber nut and belayed him off the nut with a munter hitch over the boulder and up to the ledge. At that point he put me on belay and I led the rest of the pitch, which was fun, though a bit short. Aug 24, 2018

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