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Harvard [Suggest Change]
5.3 YDS 3+ French 10 Ewbanks III UIAA 9 ZA VD 3a British
Avg: 1.5 from 46
votes
Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right
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BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13 |
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Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | George Evans and Robert Grae, 1953 |
| Page Views: | 3,754 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Copperhead alert!
Details
Summer 2018: There have been several reports of copperheads on & around Uberfall area routes.
Description [Suggest Change]
From the boulder, weasel your way up the wide crack/squeeze chimney into the corner. Continue up the corner/chimney, past the big flake thing sticking out of the corner, to the top.
Location [Suggest Change]
In a large, left-facing corner -- to the right from Crimson Corner. Look for a boulder leaning against the left face of the corner, with a wide crack splitting an overhang above.
To descend, walk off left via the Uberfall Descent.
To descend, walk off left via the Uberfall Descent.
Wayne, PA
Boulder, CO
Wayne, PA
Brooklyn, NY
Maybe not the best way to expose your newbie friends to the wonders of trad climbing, but for those who have done a couple pitches and love stemming and mantling this is the climb for them.
Tons of spiders, but whatever, it's one hell of an adventure and totally worth doing when everything else is taken.
Keep left of the protruding flake then mount on top and mantle up to the ledge to the right. Once up there go left above the roof. Tons of trees to anchor up.
My buddy led it after me and went right and went into the chimney behind "Trapped Like a Rat" which might have worsen the already strong rope drag. Jul 24, 2017