Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Stannard
Page Views: 2,981 total · 26/month
Shared By: slim on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This nice line provides a good chance at breaking into the 11- grade at the Gunks. It is short, non-committing, well protected, and very forgiving for the grade. In particular, if you are a visitor from the west, and more familiar with steep crack climbing, this will most likely feel more comfortable than the typical Gunks roofs.

Climb easily up to a roof that is approximately 15 to 20 feet above the ground via a good crack and some face climbing and/or stemming. Jam a really nice hand-and-fist crack through the roof, up into a flare/squeeze sort of affair. Get situated and pull over another roof via finger jamming and face climbing. A fun little route.


This route is displayed at the Uberfall, right of Rhododendron and just right of Walter Mitty . It is a good-sized roof about 20 feet above the ground, with an obvious hand/fist crack through it. It faces the carriage road.

Scramble down via the Uberfall Descent.


A single set of Camalots from .5 to #3 should suffice, with possibly a 2nd #3. A set of Aliens or other micro cams to finger/thin-hand size cams are useful for the anchor in a horizontal at the belay ledge.



the swain book gives this 11-, having climbed a lot of routes of this style i would say it is probably 10a or 10b, but somewhat different style than most other gunks routes. it will be interesting to see what others think of the route. grades aside, it is fun and well worth jumping on when all of the other routes are qued up. Jun 9, 2009
Jay Harrison
Jay Harrison  
You can add a sit-start under the waist-high roof (or do it as a boulder problem). Just be sure there are no copperheads lying in wait under there! Awkward jamming, stems, and pressure holds. Nov 6, 2014
Brian Zielinski
Salt Lake City, UT
Brian Zielinski   Salt Lake City, UT
As of climbing this last night, there are definitely some loose holds on the route. A small but key hand hold on the left after the first roof is loose and a larger block on the right side (after you pull the roof) seems like it could slide out of it's horizontal at any moment. Luckily you don't need to use the second one, but my hip bumped it and I was scared for my belayer.

Be wary climbing this thing!

Oh yeah, it's an awesome little roof. Well worth climbing! Jul 28, 2016
Alex Chavez  
This is one of my favorite short climbs anywhere. I’ve seen people shun it, struggle on it, and love it; I wanted to share a tiny bit of info to encourage more people to hop on this awesome climb and give it a try:
- The loose rock on the route is not dangerous — just be mindful of it. The first is a horizontal flake at the start of the roof, the second is a triangular hold above the roof, and the third is a vertical flake above the slot. Only the last hold is loose enough to warrant caution on.
- The meat of the route protects with a single #3 deep and high in the roof crack. You don’t need a lot of gear for this climb, and placing too much gear can easily cost you the send.
- There are many ways to climb the crux. I watched someone invert and redpoint it a couple weeks ago. Generally, using the right side for anything but scumming will make the climb harder than necessary. Study the route carefully for holds.
- You can clean your #3 from bomber jams and downclimb if you cannot pull the crux. May 9, 2018