Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Thornton Reed, Norton Smithe, Lester Germer 1950s
Page Views: 10,475 total · 68/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


390 Opinions

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Description

Start at a thin crack on the left side of a block about 35' right of Horseman.

A bouldery start stumps many beginners. The moves (and the gear) is all there, but both can be tricky.

The climbing eases back to 5.6 after the opening moves. The crack climbing is supplemented by many face holds as well. Enjoy the incredible fist-jam move just before the finish.

Bolted anchor at the top.

Location

There are two cracks splitting a block to the right of Horseman. The crack on the left is Laurel.

Protection

Standard rack, including a 3" piece. The two-bolt anchor on top can be accessed by the 5.0 chimney to the left.
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
The trees are gone :( Mar 25, 2010
JSH

JSH    
O, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!

This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head. Jun 23, 2010
rogerbenton  
 
The "hard moves" to start are really one awkward move to a gear placing stance.

Very nice route, and the fist jam at the top is an awesome last move. May 21, 2012
Nick Hamilton
Philadelphia
  5.7
Nick Hamilton   Philadelphia
  5.7
This route is a fun romp once past the first move or two. I always manage to get a stupidly high left foot to avoid dealing with any tiny and/or polished footholds at the start. I use a green Alien for my first piece, but I don't place it until my hands are on the first good ledge on the right side of the crack.

I wish this route were twice as long! Sep 24, 2014
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
  5.9
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
  5.9
The 'bouldery' moves seemed to go OK using 5.9 techniques. I thrashed and thrashed and finally had to take trying to make it go anywhere near 5.7. Perhaps back in the day the foot holds were not so polished. Apr 17, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
I agree with the comment above... the boulder problem off the ground is definitely harder than 5.7, for sure. I'm pretty sureI've decked off it twice. It's not bad though if you have strong ankles. Nov 1, 2015
This was my first outdoor trad lead (well, second. My first was a 5.3, Easy Keyhole, but let's just not count that nonsense). Didn't find the gear sparse at all. What a great climb! I found a BD#4 to be the right piece for the crack at the top. Jul 4, 2017
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
 
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
 
Starting feet are polished glass, make sure you spot. Nov 18, 2017
The start isn't as hard as everyone is making it out to be. It's a technical move. If you're getting pumped, you're doing it wrong. Get your right hand out on the face. There's a tiny crimp before the first jug; it'll give you some balance to make the feet less junk. Apr 16, 2018
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
Placed a small blue metolius, which I've started growing fond of, in the first decent slightly flaring crack, got worked figuring out the move to the jug so I took, little blue held for half a second, the moment I felt secure POP! The piece dinged my helmet soon enough I was sitting down on my ass realizing I had my first deck and first lead fall on gear. Luckily my belayer piled the rope on top his backpack, leaving a cushioned landing. Thanks David!

I shook it off, went for it again, this time placed a black totem in the same spot as little boy blue - which felt way more bomber and was a testament that totems are sick in slightly flaring cracks. Got the first moves dialed in, got the jug and frighteningly sent the rest of the climb.

Also probably best to send this when the sun isn't beating on the climb making you sweat. You'll need all the friction you can get because this one is well polished. Apr 23, 2018
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.6
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.6
I wanted this to be my first 5.7 lead, but there's no way it's 5.7. People complain about the start being slippery which is true but sort of irrelevant given how huge the feet are. I think the popularity and accessibility of this climb mean that a lot of out-of-towners are hopping on it and rating it soft because they aren't familiar with local grades. But the crux is just a few grunty moves--compare this to The Brat Direct (further left) or Reach Around (in Peterskill) or Classic (further Right) which all are 5.7s with grunty, slippery move cruxes. Laurel's crux just isn't as hard as the others.

It's a great climb, though. May 24, 2018