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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Thornton Reed, Norton Smithe, Lester Germer 1950s
Page Views: 8,750 total, 61/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


342 Opinions

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Description

Start at a thin crack on the left side of a block about 35' right of Horseman.

A bouldery start stumps many beginners. The moves (and the gear) is all there, but both can be tricky.

The climbing eases back to 5.6 after the opening moves. The crack climbing is supplemented by many face holds as well. Enjoy the incredible fist-jam move just before the finish.

Bolted anchor at the top.

Location

There are two cracks splitting a block to the right of Horseman. The crack on the left is Laurel.

Protection

Standard rack, including a 3" piece. The two-bolt anchor on top can be accessed by the 5.0 chimney to the left.
Shane Kenyon  
 
Starting feet are polished glass, make sure you spot. Nov 18, 2017
This was my first outdoor trad lead (well, second. My first was a 5.3, Easy Keyhole, but let's just not count that nonsense). Didn't find the gear sparse at all. What a great climb! I found a BD#4 to be the right piece for the crack at the top. Jul 4, 2017
rogerbenton  
 
Hit this again this weekend for the first time in years and it's still a wonderful little route.
It was my first lead in a few months and what a great line to get back into it on- this thing eats gear. Oct 26, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
I agree with the comment above... the boulder problem off the ground is definitely harder than 5.7, for sure. I'm pretty sureI've decked off it twice. It's not bad though if you have strong ankles. Nov 1, 2015
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
  5.9
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
  5.9
The 'bouldery' moves seemed to go OK using 5.9 techniques. I thrashed and thrashed and finally had to take trying to make it go anywhere near 5.7. Perhaps back in the day the foot holds were not so polished. Apr 17, 2015
Nick Hamilton
Philadelphia
  5.7
Nick Hamilton   Philadelphia
  5.7
This route is a fun romp once past the first move or two. I always manage to get a stupidly high left foot to avoid dealing with any tiny and/or polished footholds at the start. I use a green Alien for my first piece, but I don't place it until my hands are on the first good ledge on the right side of the crack.

I wish this route were twice as long! Sep 24, 2014
K Baumgartner
  5.7
K Baumgartner  
  5.7
Fun lead for the grade. Crux was getting off the ground with extremely polished footholds. You have the choice of putting in pro off the ground and taking away a good hold or no pro at the bottom and your choice of holds. Aug 27, 2012
rogerbenton  
 
The "hard moves" to start are really one awkward move to a gear placing stance.

Very nice route, and the fist jam at the top is an awesome last move. May 21, 2012
JSH

JSH    
O, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!

This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head. Jun 23, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
The trees are gone :( Mar 25, 2010
mirandas-daddy
Carlisle, PA
  5.7
mirandas-daddy   Carlisle, PA
  5.7
What a great 1st route for my first outside TR. The close to the deck crux made feel like I was bouldering at the gym . . . it felt like home. I would add that I made the offset at the top so much harder than it had to be, note to newbies, learn to crack climb :-) Way fun send!!! Sep 1, 2008