Mountain Project Logo

Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Joe Fitschen 1961
Page Views: 1,749 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Thin, sustained, and poorly protected. A good intro to technical face climbing.

Location

The face to the right of Boston. If you are already top-roping in the area, this one is not to be missed.

Scramble down the Uberfall Descent to the left after you're done.

Protection

Although this was originally led, this is probably better done as a TR. There is not much protection. Trees and gear and long slings are necessary for a toprope anchor.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Sounds about right. 5.8 at the Gunks and 5.10 everywhere else. Fun little game they play with the ratings. Dec 25, 2012
rogerbenton
  5.8 X
rogerbenton  
  5.8 X
TR'd this soaking wet today. Nerve racking!

Really nice face climb though, felt a little easier than the thin stuff on Three doves and Arrow. Totally worth doing after Ken's or Boston. May 26, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8+ X
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8+ X
We set the primary anchor on Boston, then walked over on rapel and slung the small tree directly above the route. Just make sure the sling is as low as you can get it to avoid damaging the tree.

Route is a lot of fun, comparable to the few 5.10 adirondack face climbs I've done. It's probably on grade for what I expect in a gunks 5.8 climb. May 15, 2011