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Jackie and friends Rock Climbing
Routes in b. Jackie and friends
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5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+ |
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His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R |
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Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jasmine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Elevation: | 1,014 ft |
| GPS: | 41.738, -74.187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 65,385 total · 722/month |
| Shared By: | JSH on Feb 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Along the Cliff
last area: The Uberfall - right side | next area: Frog's Head and The Arch
Description
Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.
Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.
Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.
Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.
Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.
Classic Climbing Routes at Jackie and friends
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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