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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 1,014 ft
GPS: 41.738, -74.187 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 55,069 total, 664/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011
Admins: JSH

Along the Cliff

last area: The Uberfall - right side | next area: Frog's Head and The Arch

Description

Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.

The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.

Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.

Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.

For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jackie and friends

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Betty
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Belly Roll
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jackie
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dennis
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
RMC
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Miss Bailey
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Raubenheimer Special
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape Call
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Blackout
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pink Laurel
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
P38
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stirrup Trouble
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Matinee
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Betty 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Belly Roll 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Jackie 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Dennis 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
RMC 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Big Chimney 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Raubenheimer Special 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Ape Call 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
The Blackout 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Pink Laurel 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Stirrup Trouble 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
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