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Jackie and friends Rock Climbing
Routes in b. Jackie and friends
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5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+ |
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His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R |
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Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tweedledum T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Elevation: | 1,014 ft |
| GPS: | 41.738, -74.187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 104,206 total · 911/month |
| Shared By: | JSH on Feb 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Along the Cliff
last area: The Uberfall - right side | next area: Frog's Head and The Arch
Description
Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.
Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.
Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.
Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.
Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.
Classic Climbing Routes at Jackie and friends
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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