Along the Cliff

Description

Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.

The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.

Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.

Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.

For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.

38 Total Climbs

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Location: b. Jackie and friends Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Jackie and friends

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 288
Betty
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 280
Belly Roll
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 453
Jackie
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 265
Dennis
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 184
RMC
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 62
Miss Bailey
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
Big Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 310
Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 49
Ape Call
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 51
The Blackout
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 114
Pink Laurel
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 109
P38
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 56
Stirrup Trouble
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Matinee
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Creature Features
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Betty
 288
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Belly Roll
 280
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Jackie
 453
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Dennis
 265
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
RMC
 184
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Miss Bailey
 62
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Big Chimney
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Classic
 310
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Ape Call
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
The Blackout
 51
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Pink Laurel
 114
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
P38
 109
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Stirrup Trouble
 56
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Matinee
 55
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Creature Features
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Jackie and friends »

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