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Elevation: 1,014 ft 309 m
GPS: 41.73755, -74.18693
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 158,566 total · 924/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 13, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Along the Cliff Suggest change

Description Suggest change

Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.

The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.

Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.

Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.

For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.

40 Total Climbs

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Location: b. Jackie and friends Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Jackie and friends

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 545
Betty
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 406
Belly Roll
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 27
Back Door Betty
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 715
Jackie
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 376
Dennis
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 323
RMC
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 103
Big Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 505
Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 114
Miss Bailey
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 84
Ape Call
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 169
Pink Laurel
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 167
P38
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 107
Stirrup Trouble
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 82
Matinee
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Creature Features
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Betty
 545
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Belly Roll
 406
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Back Door Betty
 27
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Jackie
 715
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Dennis
 376
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
RMC
 323
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Big Chimney
 103
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Classic
 505
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Miss Bailey
 114
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Ape Call
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
Pink Laurel
 169
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
P38
 167
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Stirrup Trouble
 107
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Matinee
 82
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Creature Features
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Jackie and friends »

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