Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 666 total · 13/month
Shared By: Optimistic on Nov 4, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Interesting and continuous face climbing up the broad "nose" just right of Ken's Crack. Boulder up to a big horizontal, then begin a series of crimpy balancy moves up to a final slabby bulge at the top.

Obviously, given its location, this must have been done many times, but it's not in the Williams Guide. The Gunks App calls it "Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" but no FA is listed. Two cruxes of fairly similar difficulty at about 15' and 25'.

The route goes essentially straight up from the start (below) to the anchors with one brief jog right at about 30'. Any hold on Ken's is too far left.

Location

Starts about 6 feet right of Ken's, behind the big block to the right of the start of Ken's. A rope dangling from the top of Ken's without directionals will fall directly over this route.

Protection

Toprope. Might well be leadable, but I think you would need a very large piece (#6 C4? Bigger?) to protect the first crux and then you'd definitely have some heads up sections higher up.

Photos

JSH

JSH    
This sounds an awful lot like Phoebe. Can you describe how they're different? Nov 5, 2014
Optimistic
New Paltz
  5.10+
Optimistic   New Paltz
  5.10+
Phoebe is about 20-25 feet right of Ken's, about 6 feet left of Boston, and has a bolt about 12 feet up. "Unknown" is not Phoebe.

Ken's as you know diagonals left to right as it ascends. If you drop a rope from the top of the cliff where Ken's tops out, allowing the rope to drop straight down, it'll be directly over this route and quite a ways from Phoebe, which I have done several times and which we had completed just before setting Ken's and "discovering" this route.

I kind of wanted to call it "Ken's Direct" but I thought it would be pretty impertinent to me to name a route that probably had its FA in about 1960.

I edited the description, which hopefully will clarify things a bit! Nov 5, 2014
This is a TERRIFIC line. Start in the pit behind the block and weave up, left, up, right, up, up.

Varied footwork, good crimps, continuous thoughtful moves. All in all I think it's a much better route than Phoebe just to the right. (Disclaimer - I've only TR'ed it. I think it would be a serious if not dangerous lead) I don't believe it's 10+ though. More like 9+, possibly 10a if reach is an issue. Jun 9, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
  5.10+
Optimistic   New Paltz
  5.10+
Glad you enjoyed it Mike! I'll have to hop on it again and see if it seems easier now. Of course Junior, over by Laurel, is "5.9+" so that would put this route in good company. I've still never ever seen anybody on this route, which is funny because the 800 people per day toproping Ken's are in a better position to do this than they are to do Ken's... Jun 9, 2016
This is listed in the Gunks App as Variation 1 on Ken's Crack (climb #70) and is named "Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance". That topo has an excellent photo showing that this is, in fact, a distinct line to the left of Phoebe's. May 23, 2017
Optimistic
New Paltz
  5.10+
Optimistic   New Paltz
  5.10+
Thanks for the update, edited the name. FWIW the Gunks Appers called it 10c, so I guess there's a range of grade impressions on this route. May 23, 2017