Type: TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,673 total · 14/month
Shared By: Optimistic on Nov 4, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Interesting and continuous face climbing up the broad "nose" just right of Ken's Crack. Boulder up to a big horizontal, then begin a series of crimpy balancy moves up to a final slabby bulge at the top.

Obviously, given its location, this must have been done many times, but it's not in the Williams Guide. The Gunks App calls it "Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" but no FA is listed. Two cruxes of fairly similar difficulty at about 15' and 25'.

The route goes essentially straight up from the start (below) to the anchors with one brief jog right at about 30'. Any hold on Ken's is too far left.

Location Suggest change

Starts about 6 feet right of Ken's, behind the big block to the right of the start of Ken's. A rope dangling from the top of Ken's without directionals will fall directly over this route.

Protection Suggest change

Toprope. Might well be leadable, but I think you would need a very large piece (#6 C4? Bigger?) to protect the first crux and then you'd definitely have some heads up sections higher up.

Photos

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