Avg: 3.1 from 304 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Maria Millar, Fritz Wiessner, 1946|
|Page Views:||14,910 total · 78/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Maria starts 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block. The start is the same as for Frog's Head and Sundown, though with some creativity (noted below), multiple parties can easily share the start(s).
P1: Climb Frog's Head (note 1) until just past the crux bulge (note 2). Place pro for your second, then traverse about 35' right on thin face, with little pro, to the base of a large, left-facing corner. 5.6, 80'.
Note 1: An alternative start that avoids (climbers on) Frog's Head entirely is climb the right-facing corner with the detached block forming a squeeze chimney, to the right (5.6ish). This is the start for Sundown, and is more in line with the corners and the grade of Maria.
Note 2: It's possible to start diagonaling up then traversing right from just below the crux bulge on Frog's Head instead of just above it. Both options are well protected.
Finally, Maria Direct, at 5.9, is another option for the first pitch; the thin crack directly below the main Maria corner is Maria Redirect (5.11)
P2: Climb the steep corner to the GT Ledge. 5.6+, 90'.
P3: Reposition your belay 15 feet right from the top of the corner. Climb a right-facing corner to an overhang, turn the overhang on the left via a crack, and continue to the top. 5.6+, 50'.
Descent: From the GT Ledge, move climber's left to a bolted rap, where two 30m raps bring you to the ground. From the clifftop, the Uberfall Descent is the best and fastest option.