Avg: 3.1 from 248 votes
Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
|Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Maria Millar, Fritz Wiessner, 1946|
|Page Views:||11,065 total, 77/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
DescriptionAnother classic moderate, with three varied pitches.
Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Maria starts 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block. The start is the same as for Frog's Head and Sundown, though with some creativity (noted below), multiple parties can easily share the start(s).
P1: Climb Frog's Head (note 1) until just past the crux bulge (note 2). Place pro for your second, then traverse about 35' right on thin face, with little pro, to the base of a large, left-facing corner. 5.6, 80'.
Note 1: An alternative start that avoids (climbers on) Frog's Head entirely is climb the right-facing corner with the detached block forming a squeeze chimney, to the right (5.6ish). This is the start for Sundown, and is more in line with the corners and the grade of Maria.
Note 2: It's possible to start diagonaling up then traversing right from just below the crux bulge on Frog's Head instead of just above it. Both options are well protected.
Finally, Maria Direct, at 5.9, is another option for the first pitch; the thin crack directly below the main Maria corner is Maria Redirect (5.11)
P2: Climb the steep corner to the GT Ledge. 5.6+, 90'.
P3: Reposition your belay 15 feet right from the top of the corner. Climb a right-facing corner to an overhang, turn the overhang on the left via a crack, and continue to the top. 5.6+, 50'.
Descent: From the clifftop, the Uberfall Descent is the best and fastest option. From the GT Ledge, move climber's left to a bolted rap anchor, where two 30m raps bring you to the ground.