Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Maria Millar, Fritz Wiessner, 1946
Page Views: 12,481 total · 77/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Another classic moderate, with three varied pitches.

Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Maria starts 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block. The start is the same as for Frog's Head and Sundown, though with some creativity (noted below), multiple parties can easily share the start(s).

P1: Climb Frog's Head (note 1) until just past the crux bulge (note 2). Place pro for your second, then traverse about 35' right on thin face, with little pro, to the base of a large, left-facing corner. 5.6, 80'.

Note 1: An alternative start that avoids (climbers on) Frog's Head entirely is climb the right-facing corner with the detached block forming a squeeze chimney, to the right (5.6ish). This is the start for Sundown, and is more in line with the corners and the grade of Maria.

Note 2: It's possible to start diagonaling up then traversing right from just below the crux bulge on Frog's Head instead of just above it. Both options are well protected.

Finally, Maria Direct, at 5.9, is another option for the first pitch; the thin crack directly below the main Maria corner is Maria Redirect (5.11)

P2: Climb the steep corner to the GT Ledge. 5.6+, 90'.

P3: Reposition your belay 15 feet right from the top of the corner. Climb a right-facing corner to an overhang, turn the overhang on the left via a crack, and continue to the top. 5.6+, 50'.

Descent: From the GT Ledge, move climber's left to a bolted rap, where two 30m raps bring you to the ground. From the clifftop, the Uberfall Descent is the best and fastest option.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos