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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams
Page Views: 239 total, 5/month
Shared By: vanishing spy on Sep 3, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1) Climb the right facing feature and pull an easy roof to a dirty overgrown ledge. Head up to an obvious left pointing flake. Diagonal rightish before traversing left for obvious crack you can see from the ground. This crack is capped by a roof/crux. Again, pull this dirty roof (maybe just right of the crack). The pitch ends on a ledge with a small tree, there is no rap station as of Sept, 2013.

P2) Go straight up through the lichen. There is a left-facing flake feature and a piton you can look for. Grey Dick says there is a bolted belay, but there is not. Continue to the GT ledge and belay.

You can rap Maria's bolted stations. Both pitches can be combined easily.

Location

This route is just right of the Maria corner. To start, look right from the thin crack of Maria Redirect to find an obvious right-arching feature leading to a shallow roof about 10ft up. Look up higher for the vertical crack leading to the crux roof. The route is dirty and covered in lichen up high, but it does exist.

Protection

Old rusty pitons here and there. Standard rack is fine, but the route is run out and wanders. Bring extra slings.

Photos

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SethG  
Ok I did this route and the description doesn't do it justice. The first pitch has three interesting bits. The second pitch is fine, easy climbing, not that dirty. I combined them both in one lead to the GT. The route is totally worthwhile. Be wary of combining the pitches if you are concerned about your second's abilities. There are thin moves right off the ground. Jul 30, 2017
I've done both Scungilli and Sultana.
Fine routes, your resume is incomplete if you haven't done them.
Yesterday's Lemonade, Raspberry Sundae, Beyond the Fringe, Sheep Thrills - people walk right by these on their way to what? The McCarthy Wall, High E., etc.
I don't get it. Sep 6, 2013
The climbing is very dirty and I tried my best to follow the Dick Williams description while on route. The climbing felt relatively easy for a gunks 5.8 but due to the difficult route finding, wandering nature and intermediate protection, I couldn't say it was any easier than the grade. Sep 6, 2013
JSH

JSH    
I second Seth's comment.

edit add: ok, Dana, I'll do it. Sometime. I promise ;-) Sep 5, 2013
SethG  
Thanks for taking this one for the team... I've been curious about it and its neighbor Scungilli. I heard they were both really dirty. Sep 4, 2013