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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill 1984
Page Views: 1,463 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Aug 8, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

A nice route that is easy to overlook. Although the pro looks dubious from the ground, it's not bad.

Work up the face between Baby and Easy Overhang. Often used to avoid the wide crack on Baby - it is tempting to move left into the Baby crack after about 40'.

The second pitch isn't memorable (as in, I can't remember anything!) and goes left of Baby. You can also climb P2 of Easy Overhang or even P2 of Son of Easy O.

Rappel from bolts at Easy Overhang, or wander back to the Uberfall Descent.

Location

Immediately right of Baby.

Protection

Standard gunks rack - mostly small stuff.

Photos

john2.71
Montclair, NJ
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
Definitely G. I stitched it up with two nuts in the crack and an alien in the slot above it. Oct 8, 2015
Mthoresz  
 
Did the this as an alternative to start of Baby. My first attempt at the grade, and loved it! Cool moves up through the crux. Oct 27, 2014
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
I put a smallish tcu in the slot to protect the crux, but looking at it to scootch it in properly was quite involved. Agree that 'pg' is closer to the truth. Aug 21, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Maybe it's me, but, I can't find the "G" gear on this climb.

UPDATE: I think it is "G" rated, just bring some little gear. Aug 19, 2011