Avg: 2.6 from 186 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||P1: 1950s. P2: Dick Du Mais and John Stannard, 1972.|
|Page Views:||8,426 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||ESG Greene on Oct 19, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The first pitch follows the large right facing corner all of the way to the GT ledge. This is fun and surprisingly steep and exposed climbing. Belay from one of several trees, depending on whether you're rapping or continuing upwards. (5.7 G/PG; a single 60m gets you down from here)
Pitch two continues up a right facing corner above the first pitch at the left end of the 5' roof for a few moves until you can traverse to the right (var), aiming diagonally up to the end of the roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to a tree above a detached block or to the top of the cliff.
Variation (5.7), courtesy of divnamite: Instead of traversing right under the roof, exit at the left side of the big roof, then move up right to a finger crack roof. Climb the roof to the top. It's a really nice variation.
Rappel from that tree (two ropes), walk ~100 yards right to the bolted rappel line over Ribs (single rope), or walk off left back to the Uberfall Descent.