Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: P1: 1950s. P2: Dick Du Mais and John Stannard, 1972.
Page Views: 8,426 total · 54/month
Shared By: ESG Greene on Oct 19, 2008 · Updates
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

There is a bunch of great climbing on this route. The first and second pitch have a very different character and both are recommended.

The first pitch follows the large right facing corner all of the way to the GT ledge. This is fun and surprisingly steep and exposed climbing. Belay from one of several trees, depending on whether you're rapping or continuing upwards. (5.7 G/PG; a single 60m gets you down from here)

Pitch two continues up a right facing corner above the first pitch at the left end of the 5' roof for a few moves until you can traverse to the right (var), aiming diagonally up to the end of the roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to a tree above a detached block or to the top of the cliff.

Variation (5.7), courtesy of divnamite: Instead of traversing right under the roof, exit at the left side of the big roof, then move up right to a finger crack roof. Climb the roof to the top. It's a really nice variation.

Rappel from that tree (two ropes), walk ~100 yards right to the bolted rappel line over Ribs (single rope), or walk off left back to the Uberfall Descent.

Location

This is the large right facing corner about 100 ft left of the Arch. The route begins on the face right of the corner, on top of a ledge.

Protection

G/PG, standard Gunks rack, belay from trees on both pitches

Photos