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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1953
Page Views: 5,169 total · 34/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


127 Opinions

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Description

An easy face climb, passing many horizontals.

Approach: Use the access trail that heads up just where there Stairmaster reaches the Carriage Trail, a 4-minute walk from the Uberfall. At the cliff, walk left and locate Arch, a prominent rock arch above the East Trapps Connector Trail. Ribs starts at the prominent, hanging arete well below the right side of the arch.

P1: Gain the large arete from the side, then traverse over to the middle of the face on the right. Climb nearly a straight line up to the GT ledge, with one or two overhang moves just before the finish. 5.5, 130'. You can also stop at the bolted rap station at 80'; this is a common toproping spot for beginners and guided groups.

Descent: There are three bolted rap stations that serve this and nearby routes.

Protection

Cams of all sizes in horizontals. Pass one bong and rap chains midway up.

Photos

Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
This climb goes straight up a rappel highway. Wear a helmet. The ledges above have loose rock and even a soft rope can hurt when it's tossed from 100'. Just ask my wife... Apr 3, 2006
There is a VERY LARGE and VERY LOOSE rock about 5 ft below the GT ledge rappel station. Oct 31, 2010
Both pitches eat tricams. Feet are all there, you just need to look :) The first ledge you rap onto from the 2nd pitch has a rock (2 ft wide x 1 ft high) just chilling there. VERY LOOSE! Be careful. Apr 30, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Boring, but it's a decent warm-up, or a stay-warm and busy while you are waiting for Arch. It gives you a good view of Arch as well. In fact as the description says, you can get over to the tree on Arch and keep going up. Or rappel from that tree, which is actually fun as well. Nov 26, 2013
minquatrails
Lancaster PA
  5.4 PG13
minquatrails   Lancaster PA
  5.4 PG13
The top quick links attached to the bolts are showing significant wear. The narrow stainless steel hangers are chewing through the softer quick link metal.

Not a fan of this route. Holds were sandy & pro seemed sketchy. Maybe I went off route? Aug 3, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
The roof directly above the second set of chains (the third pitch of Calasthenic) goes at 5.7 and is a great way to finish up this route, if you're getting bored with 5.4. Aug 19, 2014
Acmesalute76  
 
Pro is not great and this route is a popular rappel. Nov 11, 2016
Adam Mattessich
New York
  5.4
Adam Mattessich   New York
  5.4
My favorite route to let fledgling leaders try the sharp end. It's easy to protect w cams. There are great belay stations. There is an easy rappel. It's not the best on weekends as the rappel stations above get busy. Jun 23, 2018
My favorite route to let fledgling leaders try the sharp end. It's easy to protect w cams. There are great belay stations. There is an easy rappel. It's not the best on weekends as the rappel stations above get busy. Jul 26, 2018
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
 
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
 
P1 is one of the best climbs for a new trad leader. Easy climbing, well-protected (though not super abundant, new leaders should place gear at every opportunity), short straight line, and bolted anchors.

As others mentioned it is on a major rappel line (Arch), so be prepared for ropes to come down, and ideally try this when it's less busy. Sep 4, 2018

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