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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wick's Banana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Turner, 1958
Page Views: 3,695 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


88 Opinions

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Description

This is a variation to Maria's first pitch that offers great 5.9 face climbing.

Start well right of Maria just below a short right-facing flake and corner that start 10' off the ground. Make bouldery moves past a tapering horizontal with a pin, into a very small right-facing corner. A few more hard moves will bring you on a welcome stance with good gear. Finish by heading into the Maria corner - there is usually a fixed-sling anchor there.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.9
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.9
For those under, say, 5'5", the initial boulder problem to the rail is a hard deadpoint. Some may say it's a 5.9 route with a hard 5.10 move. Apr 21, 2009
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
I found the move to the pin relatively straightforward, if reachy. Above the pin things got a little dicier ... didn't find good gear 'til the ledge. Am I missing something? Nov 14, 2010
losbill  
No. Nov 15, 2010
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
 
I found that after clipping the pin and backing it up, your belayer needs to pay very close attention. If you fall climbing up to the next placement, you're likely to deck if the belayer has too much slack out. Aside from that, the rest of the route is pleasant and Maria was spectacular. Doing the Direct was an easy choice for me because I hate traversing. I'd recommend this route if you can keep it together through the start. Jul 5, 2011
SethG  
Neither a deadpoint nor a dyno is necessary. (I'm 5' 6.5".) If you're short like me, just look around, you can make a single thin move up off the ground and reach the rail. Mar 12, 2012
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
  5.10a PG13
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
  5.10a PG13
Not ashamed to say that I stick clipped the pin and then backed it up with a .75 once I got up there.

At 5' 8", the crux was right off the deck until about 20 feet up.

The gear is tricky and marginal until the climbing gets to easy.

Williams says this was the first gunks 5.9 though, so I say keep the sandbag! Jun 29, 2014
Boz Wilkes
New Paltz, NY
Boz Wilkes   New Paltz, NY
The move to clip (and back up) at the horizontal is fairly simple once you see the plentiful (albeit thin) feet. But I found pushing through the next two moves with no obvious protection pushed the grade a notch and possibility of decking became a real issue. Need a really competent belayer to give just enough slack when needed but ready to suck it up quickly. May 7, 2015
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
I found the opening move on this to be hard with a small wingspan, and thought the gear was very difficult to find afterward. If you are like me, you may only bring a few small cams since it looks like the gear is straightforward from the ground (it's not). Luckily, my belayer was a master multitasker and sent up a few pieces to stop my whining about groundfall. There is a bomber brassie placement above the small handslot in the crack and a place for a BD#3 in the alcove above. A bolder climber may opt to run it out, but should know the moves above the crack are non-trivial. Sep 6, 2016

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