Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Andress, Doug Tompkins 1964
Page Views: 3,490 total · 26/month
Shared By: JSH on May 28, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

P1 is a bit ... necky.

Start just left of the blocky chimney/corner of Bloody Mary. Climb up leftwards to a right-facing flake and clip a pin (which can be backed up, but the flake is also loose). Make a few 5.8 face moves above this stance to another set of right-facing flakes (these are also loose, and groundfall is a probability). Traverse left towards another set of right-facing flakes, up this past a small 'hang, then traverse right to the set of trees above Bloody Mary. 5.8-

P2 turns the overhang above and to the right of the belay trees. Continue up to the GT ledge. 5.7. Big 2-3" cams useful for anchor at the GT ledge above the described line.

P3: Climb up to a small overhang, passing it on the right. Layback the flake in a groove, and up to the clifftop. 5.8-

From the clifftop, walkoff via Uberfall Descent. From the GT, you can rappel in two ropes over Drunkard's Delight, to climber's left.

Location

Morning After climbs the face just left of the Bloody Mary, and 40' right of Drunkard's Delight.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack; one mediocre pin.

Photos