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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Andress, Doug Tompkins 1964
Page Views: 2,739 total, 26/month
Shared By: JSH on May 28, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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P1 is a bit ... necky.

Start just left of the blocky chimney/corner of Bloody Mary. Climb up leftwards to a right-facing flake and clip a pin (which can be backed up, but the flake is also loose). Make a few 5.8 face moves above this stance to another set of right-facing flakes (these are also loose, and groundfall is a probability). Traverse left towards another set of right-facing flakes, up this past a small 'hang, then traverse right to the set of trees above Bloody Mary. 5.8-

P2 turns the overhang above and to the right of the belay trees. Continue up to the GT ledge. 5.7. Big 2-3" cams useful for anchor at the GT ledge above the described line.

P3: Climb up to a small overhang, passing it on the right. Layback the flake in a groove, and up to the clifftop. 5.8-

From the clifftop, walkoff via Uberfall Descent. From the GT, you can rappel in two ropes over Drunkard's Delight, to climber's left.


Morning After climbs the face just left of the Bloody Mary, and 40' right of Drunkard's Delight.


Standard Gunks rack; one mediocre pin.


Re: pitch 2, which the Gunks App now basically calls the second pitch of Bloody Mary now, it's a great pitch, and as Andy said, it is about 10 feet before you get another piece, but after the first two moves, they ease up a little.

But that's not why I'm posting! Reason I'm posting is on the GT ledge, there is a significant looming hazard. The giant block upon which a pine tree once stood tall has shifted, likely from what looks like erosion beneath it. It is now held up precariously by a jenga-like structure of smaller (though still quite large) blocks, and the pine tree on top has toppled over and is leaning on another large-ish tree on the GT ledge. It seems only a matter of time before those blocks erode out, and that whole pile comes tumbling down. It will be pretty destructive when it does. Be very aware when you're up there. I'll try to post pics. Jul 27, 2017
That second pitch is one of my favorite 5.7 pitches in the Gunks; I've done it several times though not that recently. I agree you have to keep it together for the crux move with bomber gear at your feet. But isn't it just that one move, or maybe two? 10 feet is an exaggeration, unless my memory is faulty. Jul 15, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
A really fun route I've done several times but I'm surprised no one mentions the section on P2 that's PG13 and it's the crux of that pitch (~5.7ish). You're on the exposed slab up above and out of sight of the belayer. You get a pin that you can back-up with a finger-sized cam and then make a series of slabby moves for about 10' to the next reliable placement. A fall anywhere in there and you're going for a good ride...hope your belayer is ready! Jul 14, 2017
  5.8 PG13
  5.8 PG13
Nov 19th: I climbed Morning After P1 + Bloody Mary P2, which is a nice straight line with no rope drag. Makes for a really nice varied climb with interesting situations and fun gear placement opportunities. It rivals Son of Easy O in climbing quality, but falls short in gear and consistency. Anchor situation at the ledge sucks.

Gear beta:
Big cams 2-3" useful for anchor at the GT ledge above the described line.

December 7th: I went back and did Bloody Mary P1 into Morning after P2,P3. The upper pitches of Morning after are also great. P2 ~5.7 and P3 a fun 5.8-. Microcams handy for P2+P3. For some reason I couldn't make out a "flake in a groove." There is a slabby white face with a thin crack separating what looks like two big boulders, one slightly more protruding on the left. Is that the layback flake??

Also, the small pine at the base of P3 appears to be recently crushed by a microwave-size rock. Maybe that the large loose block described above was finally released. Nov 19, 2015

Once you get up to the right-facing corner up higher, the key thing is that the climbing eases off by a grade or 3 just one move higher. If you've gotten that far, you're quite unlikely to fall, and, well -- don't, because you're pretty darn high above your last -decent- gear. There's decent gear in a horizontal one move higher (that still depends on the flake itself), and then you make a few moves left to a stance. Nov 13, 2014
Old Lyme, CT
  5.8 PG13
Sardocius   Old Lyme, CT
  5.8 PG13
Tried the first pitch yesterday and ended up finishing on Bloody Mary due to a lack of confidence in the pro. Once arriving at the flake at the bottom of the right facing corner I did not see any pro with the exception of the flake which I believe could rip out if one were to fall on it. Any thoughts on this? It would be very near a ground fall at that point (I think). Nov 12, 2014
Linking pitch one of Bloody Mary with pitch two of Morning After is a three-star experience, and the link-up makes for one of the best 5.7's in the Gunks, in my opinion. Non-stop good climbing with a variety of techniques involved. Apr 8, 2013
Boston, MA
DEF   Boston, MA
Found p3 very interesting, that VERY loose block could kill somebody, enormous and could be knocked out with your pinky. DONT TOUCH THAT THING! The third pitch also starts with very minimal gear before you get to the flakes and start to move right. A bit of an adventure but I thought it was very fun! Apr 30, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8- PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8- PG13
Definitely enough gear to prevent ground fall at and after the first piton. Unfortunately, in true Gunks style (also see Drunkard's Delight), you have to climb 10-20 feet to get your first piece in.

On pitch 3 there's a large, VERY loose block below the first small overhang that should be completely ignored and not touched. For the move to the right of it you can, CAREFULLY, use the right side of the block to step up, being high aware to not move your foot during the move. The right side of the block is wider and won't tip as easily as the left. Oct 16, 2011
I'm short and I could reach it by moving my feet up just a little left of the piton, placing the gear, and then stepping back right and up. Oct 27, 2010

If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent. Oct 27, 2010
We only did the first two pitches, but I thought they were both very nice.

I led P1, and I think I disagree with Julie's comments above about it being necky. I didn't find the first shallow right-facing corner (just below the pin) to be loose. I got what I thought was a bomber nut and a cam almost at the same level as the pin. Then you can easily move up to the next stance before the crux move and place something in the awkward little down-facing, flaring pod. This was the one spot where I worried a bit about the gear, but I thought the cam was good. After the next move the pro is abundant and solid.

Pitch two is really fun, the moves out to the overhang and over it are nothing; the crux is the thin face-climbing above. A very nice 5.7 pitch.
Oct 27, 2010