Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bonnie Prudden and Hans Kraus, 1953
Page Views: 7,289 total · 52/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008 with improvements by Kurtz
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

P1: Climb up the crack, then head up and right across easier ground to the base of the left-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Mosey (hah!) up this to a belay ledge. (5.5, 100ft.)

P2: Climb the right-facing corner to a roof, then make a heart-pounding traverse out left onto the face above. Continue up to the top. (5.6, 100ft.)

Two suggestions for leaders with inexperienced followers: It is better to belay P1 from a tree immediately after the crux, then move the belay station to the GT ledge (only 10 feet of class 3 scramble), which will put you directly under the crux roof of P2.

Also, because Wrist is just above the hairpin turn, it can be very hard to hear your second below the roof on P2. If there's any chance the second will blow the traverse, belay from the horizontal cracks above the roof.

Rappel by the bolted rappel route to the north: From the top, walk about 40' right and down a trail back towards the edge. The first set of bolts is down from the edge a bit - look carefully. A set of single 60m raps will get you down.

Location

Look for an obvious crack, 35 feet left of Arch.

Protection

Standard rack, with something big (4") for the offwidth/flake on P1.

Photos