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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bonnie Prudden and Hans Kraus, 1953
Page Views: 6,435 total, 54/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


120 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb up the crack, then head up and right across easier ground to the base of the left-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Mosey (hah!) up this to a belay ledge. (5.5, 100ft.)

P2: Climb the right-facing corner to a roof, then make a heart-pounding traverse out left onto the face above. Continue up to the top. (5.6, 100ft.)

Two suggestions for leaders with inexperienced followers: It is better to belay P1 from a tree immediately after the crux, then move the belay station to the GT ledge (only 10 feet of class 3 scramble), which will put you directly under the crux roof of P2.

Also, because Wrist is just above the hairpin turn, it can be very hard to hear your second below the roof on P2. If there's any chance the second will blow the traverse, belay from the horizontal cracks above the roof.

Rappel by the bolted rappel route to the north: From the top, walk about 40' right and down a trail back towards the edge. The first set of bolts is down from the edge a bit - look carefully. A set of single 60m raps will get you down.

Location

Look for an obvious crack, 35 feet left of Arch.

Protection

Standard rack, with something big (4") for the offwidth/flake on P1.
Ben Juneau  
 
Following P1, I did not find the "layback" crux to be a layback. I used a sidepull out right in addition to the wide crack, moved my feet, and then I was on jugs above. I imagine this is less strenuous, not sure. Great route! Bring a #4 for the P1 crux. Sep 2, 2017
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
If you are taller (5'8"+?) the traverse on p2 is rather straight forward as you can reach great foot holds. Jul 28, 2016
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The rapp chains are easy to miss. Walk about 40 ft right and DOWN a trail back towards the edge. A single 60m gets you down in two rapps. Double 60s get you down in one. Be careful with your rope, the rapp runs straight down Ribs which is often occupied by newbies. May 27, 2014
Alex Kowalcyk
La Conner, WA
 
Alex Kowalcyk   La Conner, WA
 
Why do Arch to P2 of Wrist when you can do both pitches of Wrist? Great climbing to be had on both pitches! You guys are all crazy for laybacking that 4" crack. When I see a sweet cozy crack, I jam it when on lead. Great feet in the crack, and jugs up above, as well as finger-sized gear. I climbed this this afternoon and was in the shade the whole way. P1 has a rappel sling tree anchor. No rap anchor on top P2. Had to walk off. Jul 5, 2012
SethG  
The pitch two crux is fun and exciting. I just did pitch one for the first time the other day and ever since I've been trying to come up with another example of a 5.5 pitch that is so committing. I can't think of one. The layback off the edge of the off-width is one heck of a move. I put a number 3 C4 as high as I could but I would have been happier with a bigger cam. May 2, 2011
P1: A #4 Camalot might have been helpful, only had a #3 that fit about halfway up the offwidth but it's a large deep crack that opens above that and was a little concerned about it walking up and out. Had a similar sized hex (maybe slightly larger) that there was a decent spot for a bit higher and made me happy I had brought them up. There is some smaller gear out on the arete (on the outside of the offwidth) until you get about midpoint.

P2: The roof move is super protectable. There was a lovely fixed cam that I went ahead and backed up anyways. I'm short, so I had to hand traverse a few moves (feet are not supporting any real weight) until I could throw my foot on on the protruding corner and twist myself up to grab the protruding horn above that and pull myself over. Oct 31, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Ok, What did I miss on the P2 traverse? Feet perhaps? I lead this today and felt that it was harder than a 5.6. I wasted a ton of energy go up and down on the "high road" vs. the "low road". I think I needed to heel hook the big horn and just move across on the low road. Anyways, I made it and was laughing when I finished. I am sure I looked very funny as my feet were scrambling for purchase. The pro is great on the traverse and you are dangling in mid air, so a fall would have really no consequences.

So is there secret beta that I need to know for next time? Aug 21, 2010
Dana Marie
Cold Spring
Dana Marie   Cold Spring
Just did this route and thought it was great. Both P1 and P2 cruxes were thoughtful and challenging. P2's airy traverse is fun - I am tall, so I got the foot hold without an intermediate step at the beginning...lucky me. May 17, 2010
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
This is a great route for a hot day, as both belays are shaded.

A #4 camalot protects the 5.5 crux on the first pitch. The crack is somewhat off-width if you stick to it. It is possible to climb to the right of the crack though. Feb 6, 2008