Avg: 2.1 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Mike and Pete Werner, 1975|
|Page Views:||1,514 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Kurtz on Sep 15, 2013|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb up and place a bomber piece or two below the roof. Get your feet up and go for the good horizontal just out of reach. Pull the roof and plug the #4 (crux). Continue up and belay at the the tree of your choice. (50 ft. G)
P2: Move up the face on dirty, thin holds with scattered pro. The crux is midway where there's a run-out move with particularly thin hands. Escape left to Bloody Bush if spooked. Belay on the same big ledge as P1 of Bloody Bush. (60 ft. PG-R)
P3: Climb the big right-facing corner above the belay, staying right to avoid the obvious fractured rock, and exit left at the roof. Continue up and move right around an overhang. Then straight up to a tree belay. Road noise makes hearing difficult. Plan accordingly. (100 ft. G)
To descend, move right 25 ft. and downclimb to the Bloody Bush rappel trees -or- walk 75 ft. right to the chains above Ribs. Double 60m will reach. There are intermediate rapp stations if you're rapping with a single rope.