Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike and Pete Werner, 1975
Page Views: 1,055 total · 15/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This route has some good climbing but does not get a lot of traffic so it's a bit dirty. It's an option if Bloody Bush and Wrist are busy but, be warned, Uncle Rudy is a distinct notch more difficult and run-out.

P1: Climb up and place a bomber piece or two below the roof. Get your feet up and go for the good horizontal just out of reach. Pull the roof and plug the #4 (crux). Continue up and belay at the the tree of your choice. (50 ft. G)

P2: Move up the face on dirty, thin holds with scattered pro. The crux is midway where there's a run-out move with particularly thin hands. Escape left to Bloody Bush if spooked. Belay on the same big ledge as P1 of Bloody Bush. (60 ft. PG-R)

P3: Climb the big right-facing corner above the belay, staying right to avoid the obvious fractured rock, and exit left at the roof. Continue up and move right around an overhang. Then straight up to a tree belay. Road noise makes hearing difficult. Plan accordingly. (100 ft. G)

Location

Between Bloody Bush and Wrist. Look for a short right-facing corner with a small crack above that leads to a small roof 20 ft. up.

To descend, move right 25 ft. and downclimb to the Bloody Bush rappel trees -or- walk 75 ft. right to the chains above Ribs. Double 60m will reach. There are intermediate rapp stations if you're rapping with a single rope.

Protection

A #4 Camalot protects above the roof on P1. The pro on P1 and 2 is a bit thin and widely spaced in places. Doubles are a good idea and make the rappel faster.

Photos