Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: 1984 T. Swain, D Saball, A. & R. Schenkel
Page Views: 738 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ralph Swansen on Jan 16, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Jam a fingers to hands crack that arcs right to a roof with a wide crack. Pull roof and continue up to the tree mid-cliff via Trusty Rifle or to the GT ledge.


At a crack in an alcove, just left of where the trail heads up a short hill to Bloody Bush and Wrist.


To a #4 cam (#6 optional)


Tony Lopez
Tony Lopez   NJ
Dirty, thuggish, short, atypical for the Gunks, fun and worth doing.
Mar 13, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Dirty and fun. Fun and Dirty. Bring a #5 to protect a grounder. May 13, 2017
Ben Hoste
Tucson, AZ
Ben Hoste   Tucson, AZ
Can be protected easily with a single rack and nothing larger than a #3 without runout. Just have know see where to place the gear. Fun climb, physical. May 1, 2018
adam gong
Santa Monica, CA
adam gong   Santa Monica, CA
Handful of awesome moves on this one. Smiling the whole way through - pure fun May 27, 2018
James Donigan
James Donigan   Brooklyn
Not nearly enough traffic for a gunks crack! Get on this! I'd agree with Ben that while the most obvious placements are bigger cams there are features that will take other sizes. single to #4 would definitely suffice to get you up to the rap tree, but I wasn't mad bumping a #6 above me in the roof and essentially being on TR. Don't skip this climb just because you don't have big gear though! I'll have to back up my claim one day :) May 29, 2018