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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: 1984 T. Swain, D Saball, A. & R. Schenkel
Page Views: 666 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ralph Swansen on Jan 16, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details

Description

Jam a fingers to hands crack that arcs right to a roof with a wide crack. Pull roof and continue up to the tree mid-cliff via Trusty Rifle or to the GT ledge.

Location

At a crack in an alcove, just left of where the trail heads up a short hill to Bloody Bush and Wrist.

Protection

To a #4 cam (#6 optional)

Photos

Tony Lopez
NJ
 
Tony Lopez   NJ
 
Dirty, thuggish, short, atypical for the Gunks, fun and worth doing.
Mar 13, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Dirty and fun. Fun and Dirty. Bring a #5 to protect a grounder. May 13, 2017
Ben Hoste
Brooklyn, NY
 
Ben Hoste   Brooklyn, NY
 
Can be protected easily with a single rack and nothing larger than a #3 without runout. Just have know see where to place the gear. Fun climb, physical. May 1, 2018
adam gong
Brooklyn, NY
 
adam gong   Brooklyn, NY
 
Handful of awesome moves on this one. Smiling the whole way through - pure fun May 27, 2018
James Donigan
Brooklyn
 
James Donigan   Brooklyn
 
Not nearly enough traffic for a gunks crack! Get on this! I'd agree with Ben that while the most obvious placements are bigger cams there are features that will take other sizes. single to #4 would definitely suffice to get you up to the rap tree, but I wasn't mad bumping a #6 above me in the roof and essentially being on TR. Don't skip this climb just because you don't have big gear though! I'll have to back up my claim one day :) May 29, 2018

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