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Sixish Roof
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Billy Shears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Easy Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Heather / Cheating on Heather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Maria Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Night Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sixish Roof T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trusty Rifle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wick's Banana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 41.73836, -74.18537 |
| FA: | FFA Art Gran, early 60s |
| Page Views: | 254 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Milt Strickler on Feb 21, 2024 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
This was the original aid line for Sixish and possibly was one of the first dozen or so 5.10s in the Trapps, although it was called 5.9 at least until the 1972 blue Williams guide.
Climb the steep face about ten feet right of the dihedral on the third pitch of Sixish and behind the big pine tree. Move up the face via thin horizontal seams (crux) and turn the large but slightly easier roof. Alternatively one can hand traverse left to the Sixish dihedral and finish on that.
When I did this several times in the mid 70s there was a large horizontal flake running out to the lip of the roof, making the direct ascent of the roof very doable. It's possible that this flake has broken off, because I saw a more recent description indicating the leftward traverse option. If the flake has indeed broken and the roof is not climbable, the traverse may be the only option. Or the roof might still be doable but much harder.
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