Elevation: 1,037 ft
GPS: 41.738, -74.185 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 82,623 total · 865/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 14, 2011
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Along the Cliff

last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's

Description

Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.

The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.

The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.

Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.

Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.

Approach: Most routes are accessed from the
Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is [[Sixish]]111945150 below the Baby offwidth. There is also an
Sixish trailhead. that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary.

Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.

There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.

For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.

For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.

36 Total Climbs

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Location: c. Frog's Head - the Arch Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Frog's Head - the Arch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 220
Easy Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 230
Sixish
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 208
Arch
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 485
Frog's Head
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 246
Maria
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 312
Baby
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 140
Wrist
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 159
Bloody Bush
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 117
Bloody Mary
Trad 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 265
City Lights
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 212
Drunkard's Delight
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 465
Son of Easy O
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 136
Pas de Deux
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 74
Morning After
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Maria Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Overhang
 220
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 2 pitches
Sixish
 230
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Arch
 208
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Frog's Head
 485
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Maria
 246
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Baby
 312
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Wrist
 140
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bloody Bush
 159
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bloody Mary
 117
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
City Lights
 265
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Drunkard's Delight
 212
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Son of Easy O
 465
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Pas de Deux
 136
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Morning After
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Maria Direct
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Frog's Head - the Arch »

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