Frog's Head - the Arch Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.738, -74.185 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Easy Street, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.
Approach: Most routes are accessed from the Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is [[Sixish]]111945150 below the Baby offwidth. There is also an Sixish trailhead. that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary.
Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.
Classic Climbing Routes at Frog's Head - the Arch
Days w Precip