Mountain Project Logo

Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 1,037 ft
GPS: 41.738, -74.185 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 64,240 total, 775/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 14, 2011
Admins: JSH
Getting weather forecast...

Along the Cliff

last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's

Description

Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.

The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.

The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.

Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.

Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.

Approach: Most routes are accessed from the below the Baby offwidth. There is also an that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary.

Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.

There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.

For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.

For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.

36 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: c. Frog's Head - the Arch Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Frog's Head - the Arch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Easy Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sixish
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frog's Head
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Baby
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrist
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Bush
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Mary
Trad 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
City Lights
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Drunkard's Delight
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Easy O
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pas de Deux
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Morning After
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Overhang 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 2 pitches
Sixish 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Frog's Head 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Baby 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Wrist 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bloody Bush 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bloody Mary 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
City Lights 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Drunkard's Delight 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Son of Easy O 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Pas de Deux 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Morning After 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Maria Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Frog's Head - the Arch »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

0 Comments

More About Frog's Head - the Arch

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Frog's Head - the Arch (144)

Most Popular · Newest