Frog's Head - the Arch Rock Climbing
Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
|Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|GPS:||41.738, -74.185 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||64,240 total, 775/month|
|Shared By:||JSH on Feb 14, 2011|
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Along the Clifflast area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's
DescriptionMajor Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.
Approach: Most routes are accessed from the below the Baby offwidth. There is also an that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary.
Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.
Classic Climbing Routes at Frog's Head - the Arch
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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