Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Dave Saball, Randy Schenkel, Andy Schenkel, 1984
Page Views: 1,880 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 29, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Begin at the ledge that marks the start of Bloody Bush.

From Rick Cronk: The FA of the offwidth below the Bloody Bush ledge, originally known as Rusty Jam and now appearing as a variation at 5.9, was done by myself, Matt Muchnik, Kevin Bein, Rich Perch and John Bragg in 1975. It involved a complete ascent of three pitches to the top. Bein, Perch and Bragg continued on their way along the Trapps from the top of the first pitch. Not knowing of the undocumented 1950's ascent of Bloody Bush (Easy Street), Muchnik and I continued up that corner to the GT. Our third pitch wandered up just left of Rusty Trifle to the top. After 9 years Swain and party added a new separate 2nd pitch and a new name. So it goes.

From the ledge, make a big step up and out left onto a smaller ledge, then climb up 10 feet or so to a small roof; just above the roof there is a shallow seam. Move slightly left until you are standing on good footholds, then go straight up to a large horizontal. Back right a few feet, then climb straight up to a large pine tree. As described, this pitch is often empty, and has good protection (albeit with a bit of work) and interesting moves.

There are several pitches to be climbed from the GT ledge. Straight up from the rappel tree is easy, 5.5 or so, jugs and overlaps to a right-facing white corner (this is P3 of Rusty Trifle?).

Next-left is a runout, somewhat harder pitch.

Over further left (30' or so), you can climb trending right up discontinuous cracks at about 5.8 and PG; the Williams guide describes this as the top pitch of Trusty Rifle.

Rappel from trees -- watch for pine sap.

Location

Start at the ledge were Bloody Bush begins

Protection

Several small TCUs

Photos

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