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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Dave Saball, Randy Schenkel, Andy Schenkel, 1984
Page Views: 1,572 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 29, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Begin at the ledge that marks the start of Bloody Bush.

From Rick Cronk: The FA of the offwidth below the Bloody Bush ledge, originally known as Rusty Jam and now appearing as a variation at 5.9, was done by myself, Matt Muchnik, Kevin Bein, Rich Perch and John Bragg in 1975. It involved a complete ascent of three pitches to the top. Bein, Perch and Bragg continued on their way along the Trapps from the top of the first pitch. Not knowing of the undocumented 1950's ascent of Bloody Bush (Easy Street), Muchnik and I continued up that corner to the GT. Our third pitch wandered up just left of Rusty Trifle to the top. After 9 years Swain and party added a new separate 2nd pitch and a new name. So it goes.

From the ledge, make a big step up and out left onto a smaller ledge, then climb up 10 feet or so to a small roof; just above the roof there is a shallow seam. Move slightly left until you are standing on good footholds, then go straight up to a large horizontal. Back right a few feet, then climb straight up to a large pine tree. As described, this pitch is often empty, and has good protection (albeit with a bit of work) and interesting moves.

There are several pitches to be climbed from the GT ledge. Straight up from the rappel tree is easy, 5.5 or so, jugs and overlaps to a right-facing white corner (this is P3 of Rusty Trifle?).

Next-left is a runout, somewhat harder pitch.

Over further left (30' or so), you can climb trending right up discontinuous cracks at about 5.8 and PG; the Williams guide describes this as the top pitch of Trusty Rifle.

Rappel from trees -- watch for pine sap.

Location

Start at the ledge were Bloody Bush begins

Protection

Several small TCUs

Photos

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I started from the Bloody Bush ledge, and kept wondering why this felt way too easy to be a 5.7. I think I ended up a little too far left and was probably on the post-traverse part of Rusty Trifle. Oops. Nov 1, 2015
It is listed as G in the book, but the gear placements off the ledge are tricky. Apr 22, 2013
Definitely not climbed a lot. If you were looking for jugs you were in the wrong place; the climbing is thin face off of the ledge. Did you run into tree sap towards the GT? You should try it from the ground sometime -- there's really good climbing down low Aug 21, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I started off the ledge. I found it to be a little scary. The crux was hard and the stance above the crux wasn't great (I wanted BIG jugs) and I had to work a bit to get in some trustworthy gear (I think I should have trended left, based on note above). Once over the crux, the climb backs way down and it's an easy cruise to the GT ledge. I don't think it's climbed frequently, there was a lot of mud in the horizontals and in places where I thought I would have a good hold (not). It's probably not as bad as I am saying, my biorhythms were off kilter today... Aug 21, 2010
JSH

JSH    
The Black Dick described, basically: starting at the ledge, go up a thin seam and climb the face left of the major arete, to the GT ledge, 5.9 G. This seemed thin enough to be easy 5.9, to me; I'm not sure it's the same as what you've described here. Jun 4, 2010
Agree with all comments except two - the offwidth is reasonably clean, and you don't need big gear (not that it will go unused if you have it). A large hex is better than a cam before the crack flares wide, and a #3 Camalot after it tapers back down will protect you just fine. 5.9 seems right, maybe 9+, but this isn't Sacher Cracker. Apr 27, 2010
vanishing spy
  5.9+
vanishing spy  
  5.9+
Start from the ground with some difficult jamming, laybacking, shitting. The crack is often dirty, which adds to the difficulty. Sep 27, 2009
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Read Swain's guidebook versus Williams for this route. It is Swain's route. As mentioned...It starts on the ground at an overhanging offwidth crack and is rated 5.9. Very strenuous. Jun 3, 2009
There is no point to climb Trusty Rifle without starting from the ground. Start from the ground and do it in one pitch up the GT ledge and it goes at about 5.9. The first part off of the deck has the best and most interesting climbing. It is a rare Gunks opportunity to do some offwidth climbing with a chicken wing move. Fun pitch. Apr 29, 2009