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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Perch and Mike Sawicky 1981
Page Views: 1,232 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Jean's overlooked sister, which is well worth a burn. Nice crimpy crux with a bit of fun climbing up to it. The route name, like some others, comes from the bus that nearly drove off the hairpin turn.

P1- Same beginning as Jean. Climb the small left-facing corner to a small stance. Surf right then back left through a deceptive little sequence. From the main left-facing corner, do a balancy traverse right for about 15 feet under the roof. Crank the roof going up and left using a fantastic set of crimpers. Belay at the ledge above or rap if you so desire.

P2- A good mental challenge at 5.8 PG-R. Climb the short left-facing corner and continue up and slightly left, staying away from the easier climbing on Sixish. Worth doing at least once.

From the GT ledge, traverse left to the bolted rappel line left of Maria.

Location

40 feet right of Maria and 15 feet right of Sixish, below the left side of the obvious roof.

Protection

Standard rack to 2". Microcams helpful.

Photos

Wes John-Alder
Brooklyn, New York
Wes John-Alder   Brooklyn, New York
I got my butt handed to me by this route yesterday. Luckily, there's bomber pro right before the crux where you need it the most. I worked the crux roof 6 or 7 times before the beta clicked and I mustered the strength to pull it. Add an extra "+" to the rating in the guidebook for good measure if you're unsure.

It appears that there are two possible ways to start the traverse to the right. They both have solid protection. I climbed up until I was just under the roof to start the traverse as there were some nice solid ledges and a huge handrail for my feet at 6'1". Jun 13, 2016