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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 9/25/85 |
| Page Views: | 352 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Michael G on Aug 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description [Edit]
Williams describes it as a "bit contrived", and it is.
Climb the face between Pas de Deux and City Lights to a ledge and small overhang formed by right- and left-facing flakes. The right-facing flakes are City Lights. Patty Duke involves a few moves above the left-facing flake, eliminating the right-facing flake, to gain the City Lights "jug". You can stay slightly left of City Lights as you work your way up, but eventually have to traverse over and up (5.5 R) to the bolt anchors.
Climb the face between Pas de Deux and City Lights to a ledge and small overhang formed by right- and left-facing flakes. The right-facing flakes are City Lights. Patty Duke involves a few moves above the left-facing flake, eliminating the right-facing flake, to gain the City Lights "jug". You can stay slightly left of City Lights as you work your way up, but eventually have to traverse over and up (5.5 R) to the bolt anchors.
Protection [Edit]
Williams suggests placing pro in the right-facing flakes of City Lights to protect the crux. Instead, I was able to get three micro-nuts in the left-facing flake (one was a directional) just beneath the crux. Judge for yourself.
New Haven, CT