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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 9/25/85
Page Views: 318 total, 3/month
Shared By: Michael G on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Williams describes it as a "bit contrived", and it is.

Climb the face between Pas de Deux and City Lights to a ledge and small overhang formed by right- and left-facing flakes. The right-facing flakes are City Lights. Patty Duke involves a few moves above the left-facing flake, eliminating the right-facing flake, to gain the City Lights "jug". You can stay slightly left of City Lights as you work your way up, but eventually have to traverse over and up (5.5 R) to the bolt anchors.

Location

On the face between Pas de Deux and City Lights

Protection

Williams suggests placing pro in the right-facing flakes of City Lights to protect the crux. Instead, I was able to get three micro-nuts in the left-facing flake (one was a directional) just beneath the crux. Judge for yourself.

Photos

GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Left side of that big flake was very creaky! Handle with care. May 28, 2017
SethG  
The guidebook describes a second pitch, which starts just right of the chains and heads straight up into the overhang, eventually moving a little left and joining the finish of City Lights. This pitch is steep and pumpy. It has some nice moves but some crappy rock through the crux section. Felt a little bit harder than the 5.6+ suggested by Williams. May 18, 2013