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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: Mark Dixon, Dana Bartlett, 1994
Page Views: 1,000 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 24, 2011
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details

Route description

Start at the smooth face between City Lights and Frog's Head. Move up an indistinct, left-leaning ramp: this starts about 10-15 off the ground, and it is directly below a very small tree. At the end of the ramp, climb the face straight up to the belay ledge, walk right to the Frog's Head bolts. The crux is the first 20 feet or so.

The current guide lists this as 5.9. From what I can remember and from what was told to me by a long-time 'Gunks climber who did the climb, it is 5.10 of one sort or another. Either way, it's only a one star route: clean rock and decent moves, but no real line.

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kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.10b/c R
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.10b/c R
It's okay as a toprope off the Frog's Head anchor. Otherwise it's a highball boulder problem, 'cuz there's no gear. I think it's best to start ~10 feet right of the left-angling ramp, climb up 6 feet, then traverse left. I didn't quite send it, but mid-10s feels more accurate than the book's 5.9. Apr 21, 2014
Great climb very committing
Like sente. Good 5.9 Sep 2, 2016
Ben Hoste
Brooklyn, NY
 
Ben Hoste   Brooklyn, NY
 
This is a great top rope route, on lead it would be committing. I would say it has more features than Sente but is less sustained overall. The first few moves reminded me of those on Junior in the Uberfall. Loved climbing this thing.

Dick lists it at 5.9. Why not just let it be rated 5.9. What's with the inflation? Nov 8, 2017
Dana Bartlett   CO
 
It was rated as an on-sight lead. Nov 8, 2017

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