Avg: 2.4 from 252 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||P1: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1953|
|Page Views:||10,475 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Aug 12, 2008|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1 - Climb the right-facing flakes on the lower arch and continue up an easy but runout face to a dirt ledge about 30' up. From here, aim towards the easiest exit out and over the arch on the right (optional belay after exiting the arch). Follow easier climbing right of the tree, then move left below the next tree and straight up to the GT Ledge. 160', 5.5.
P2 - Look right and climb the face to a notch in the shallow part of the roof (the right-hand side of the roof. The left is Wrist). Head straight to the top from there and finish in the right-facing corner and crack.
Descent: Walk right and down to a bolted rappel route. Three raps with a 50m rope will get you down.