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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1953
Page Views: 7,954 total · 69/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A fun route; a classic, if combined with P2 of Wrist.

P1 - Climb the right-facing flakes on the lower arch and continue up an easy but runout face to a dirt ledge about 30' up. From here, aim towards the easiest exit out and over the arch on the right (optional belay after exiting the arch). Follow easier climbing right of the tree, then move left below the next tree and straight up to the GT Ledge. 160', 5.5.

P2 - Look right and climb the face to a notch in the shallow part of the roof (the right-hand side of the roof. The left is Wrist). Head straight to the top from there and finish in the right-facing corner and crack.

Descent: Walk right and down to a bolted rappel route. Three raps with a 50m rope will get you down.

Location

The Arch access trail is about a 4-min. walk from the Uberfall, where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk left past Strictly From Nowhere and Ribs until you're under the huge arch about 70' up the wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Many trees as anchors.
adamsc
Cincinnati, OH
 
adamsc   Cincinnati, OH
 
The directions in the description are opposite. You climb LEFT of the lower tree after pulling the corner to arrive at the RIGHT side of the upper tree, right below the 2nd pitch of Wrist. The traverse isn't bad and the gear is all there. Sep 5, 2016
Brian Aitken  
 
Like teresamatrix, my partner and I went up a crack on the upper right side of the arch and didn't traverse out right more. I was thinking this might be the Billy Sheers roof variation, too. Definitely was not the 5.5 moves I expected! Aug 16, 2015
teresamatrix
Los Angeles, CA
teresamatrix   Los Angeles, CA
Instead of traversing so far to the right on the face, I went up a wide crack on the upper right side of the arch. I guess this is the Billy Sheers roof variation. In my opinion, traversing so far to the right for the original 5.5 Arch is contrived. The way UP is through that crack! But it was much harder than I anticipated!


In agreement with Russ, the last pitch is very cool! Don't miss it - it's through the cool looking little notch just a little to the right of whatever tree you probably used on the GT. Oct 6, 2014
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.6 PG13
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.6 PG13
Overall the climbing is easy, but has some very scary, exposed and unprotected moves for a 5.5!

Contrary to some comments, I found the first pitch well protected up until the corner exiting the arch- (mostly small tricams in horizontals, black through brown. Doubles of these would be a good idea, especially black, pink, and red). The rope drag after exiting the arch was terrible- I only used shoulder length runners in the corner, and regretted not using longer ones. After exiting the Arch to the slight ledge, you must not fall before reaching the tree- Otherwise it's a ledge fall likely followed by a bigger fall with a huge swing..

I used the 'optional' belay at the tree making it 3 pitches, rope drag was too much to go further. It's a hanging belay, there's a tiny ledge by the tree, but no way to build an anchor above it. The remaining climb up to the GT Ledge was easy, but the holds are all covered in loose dirt and pine needles. I think I climbed right of the actual route, which seemed safer and was well protected.

The 2nd / 3rd Pitch is pretty nice, almost enough to make the messy sections and hanging belay on the first pitch worth it. The crux at the beginning is slightly less scary than it looks from below, with great jugs, and protected by a solid looking piton as well as a horizontal offering solid pro (I used a brown tricam). Just be very careful of the precarious death blocks that tempt you to use them as footholds, lest you knock out your belayer! Sep 10, 2014
Both pitches are great fun. The second pitch gets overlooked because you can so easily jump on Wrist from the GT ledge. But don't miss the super-cool 2nd pitch of Arch! Classic Gunks climbing, with a sweet notch at the beginning, then some random face climbing, then at the top is a gymnastic roof that requires some "cajones" for the leader!! Nov 26, 2013
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
Fun route. First pitch exit right at roof is exciting. Last crux move on 2nd pitch, I backed up flexing ancient piton with rusty ring with a bd #3 c4. this move is awkward, steep and seems stout for 5.5. Great finish to first Gunks lead Aug 28, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.5
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.5
A fun outing and a classic at the grade. If you set it up right and don't mind a wee bit of run-out you can protect this well for your follower and avoid rope drag. I thought P1 was on the easy-ish end of gunks 5.5 while P2 crux is definitely hard for the grade. Nov 22, 2012
Valerie Bachinsky
West Sand Lake, NY
 
Valerie Bachinsky   West Sand Lake, NY
 
Thought I led the 2nd pitch but not sure if I was actually on it. Felt like 5.5 but was very dirty and didn't look like it gets climbed much. I did break through a small roof with a piton, there was 2 death blocks directly beneath which added challenge to the move due to making certain I didn't disturb them. Be careful there...I initially pulled on one and it moved...very scary. Finished in a left-facing corner with a piton. Oct 18, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.5
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.5
I actually linked most of P1 into the Billy Shears roof, which is def a 5.9 set of moves. With proper rope management, this was a fun alternate to going around the corner of the original Arch route. It was a little dirty in places, but that's trad climbing in the Gunks sometimes. P2 was fun and a bit airy. It traversed a bit, but the pro options are all there. Oct 13, 2011
Neil Steinert
Hamilton
  5.5
Neil Steinert   Hamilton
  5.5
Not sure why the negative comments, I thought the climb was great. I lead it yesterday and it was a bit wet, but still very enjoyable. Good pro if you look for it. No drag with shoulder length runners and maybe a long one at the arete.
The very beginning of P1 is run out before your first piece of pro, but was good climbing. On P2 at the top I think I went off route and went straight up through a cracked roof with an old pin/ring. Fun, but I think that I didn't put enough slings there and had serious drag.
All in all, loved the climb and would do it again without hesitation and highly recommend it. May 23, 2011
doligo
  5.4
doligo  
  5.4
As gblauer says holds are there and protection is there - small cams and pink tricams sew it up pretty nicely. Rope drag can be avoided with extended slings. I would not give this climb 3 stars though - traverse was ok, I almost thought I missed the route and should have gone through the arch.

Could not find P2 - ended up on P2 of Wrist, which sweetened up the whole climb! May 9, 2010
SketchySam
  5.5
SketchySam  
  5.5
There are a couple of spots on P1 where you simply can't fall - the holds and pro a both bad in some spots. Granted, the climbing is easy, but the rock is suspect. In addition, the first pitch traverses so much that its difficult to protect well and prevent rope drag. P2 is mediocre climbing at best. The route is contrived - loose holds, dirty climbing, excessive traversing and sketchy pro. Nov 17, 2009
JSH

JSH    
This isn't a great route for either new leaders or new followers - it traverses a lot in the first pitch, with large swings possible on either end of the rope. Also, this section of cliff has lots of loose rock on it - it's a good place to wear helmets, even on the ground. Jul 20, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
To me, this looks improbable from the ground. But, once you are up there the climbing is really very easy. Keep you eyes out for pro, is kind of sparse, but, reasonable. It's not plug and play, but it's certainly not an R rated climb either. The exit moves out of the arch are fun and airy. May 26, 2009