Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Walter Baumann, Dick Williams, Cherry Merritt 1972
Page Views: 5,974 total · 48/month
Shared By: JSH on May 28, 2009
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Bloody Mary is yet-another high quality moderate at the Gunks.

P1: Start at the left edge of the block. Follow the vertical crack until a small overhang at ~40'. Traverse right, to the next vertical crack, and climb that to the set of trees above it. 5.6G

P2: Traverse left from the tree belay ~30' on easy ground, climb up to the first set of overhangs, then traverse back right to clear the main overhang at a weakness. Continue to the GT ledge. This pitch is not for the faint of heart, or the faint of followers!

as of 8/2016: There is a very scary looking fallen tree hanging over the edge of the GT Ledge almost directly on top of pitch 2. Balanced on top of the fallen tree is a large boulder. Please be very careful walking over the tree to the rap rings (climbers right).

P3: Climb the first right-facing corner on the left, ~10 feet high. Step left, and continue up to the top, passing a bulge. Variation: Climb the right-facing corner on that's 20 feet right, continue to the top.

Walk off via Uberfall Descent.

Location

Bloody Mary is the rightmost route on the Drunkard's Delight wall. It follows an obvious vertical crack behind the large block.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos