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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Walter Baumann, Dick Williams, Cherry Merritt 1972
Page Views: 5,248 total · 49/month
Shared By: JSH on May 28, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Bloody Mary is yet-another high quality moderate at the Gunks.

P1: Start at the left edge of the block. Follow the vertical crack until a small overhang at ~40'. Traverse right, to the next vertical crack, and climb that to the set of trees above it. 5.6G

P2: Traverse left from the tree belay ~30' on easy ground, climb up to the first set of overhangs, then traverse back right to clear the main overhang at a weakness. Continue to the GT ledge. This pitch is not for the faint of heart, or the faint of followers!

as of 8/2016: There is a very scary looking fallen tree hanging over the edge of the GT Ledge almost directly on top of pitch 2. Balanced on top of the fallen tree is a large boulder. Please be very careful walking over the tree to the rap rings (climbers right).

P3: Climb the first right-facing corner on the left, ~10 feet high. Step left, and continue up to the top, passing a bulge. Variation: Climb the right-facing corner on that's 20 feet right, continue to the top.

Walk off via Uberfall Descent.


Bloody Mary is the rightmost route on the Drunkard's Delight wall. It follows an obvious vertical crack behind the large block.


Standard Gunks rack.


tk - that's V1 as described in the Gray Dick. He gives it 5.8+ Mar 30, 2016
Did this climb today was quite fun (but preferred "Morning After" to the left). Has anybody gone straight up at the small roof on p1, as a direct variation? I've done both ways and much preferred going straight up. Jul 4, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
I did the link-up with Morning After which was fantastic. At the GT ledge I ended up walking about 30 ft to climber's right and did the last pitch of Uncle Rudy (5.7+). Well worth your time...wild hand traverse around the corner then a great, tough little roof. From the top of Uncle Rudy there's a rap tree about 20 ft to climber's left along the ledge. This gets you down to another rap tree and from there down to one more. Oct 31, 2012
Jake D.
Jake D.   Northeast
Did the Bloody Mary --> morning after link up today.. mostly by accident but kinda had a feeling I was. Definitely a nice way to do it.. i didn't like the idea of the left then right traversing. Jun 28, 2011
David Ford
Cambridge, MA
David Ford   Cambridge, MA
Fun to link the first pitch with the second pitch of Morning After (5.7) to the GT ledge. May 16, 2011
The first two pitches of this climb are total awesomeness. I loved the first pitch and the second was even better. I can't think of another 5.6 pitch in the Trapps that requires you to place gear (at least two pieces if you're thinking of yourself AND your second) in such an overhanging position. Really nice, and I thought the pro on both of the first two pitches was fine.

I guess most people don't do the third pitch. I wouldn't recommend it. Dirty, sandy, not the best pro. I had to excavate a crack or two so I could put pieces in. And towards the top it becomes a total bushwhack through lichen, dirt and dead branches. Next time I would head to the climber's left at the top of pitch two and rap off the Drunkard's tree.

Finally, I know I'm a broken record on this subject at mountain project, but I would avoid the optional belay tree at the top of the first pitch. The tree is none too big in the first place, and it is nearly dead. If you wish to belay at this location it is easy to build a gear anchor. May 2, 2010
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
I did Bloody Mary on Saturday. The gear is great the whole way up--including the 5.3 walk up above the P2 roof. I do know that there was a severe spinal injury that took place on this route last autumn. Someone fell while clipping their 3rd piece and their second piece came unclipped some how. I can't see how this is a function of the route however. Nov 10, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
  5.7 PG13
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
  5.7 PG13
LOVED THIS CLIMB!!! Did it twice cuz we left our anchor at the top of P2. I got to lead P1 and P2.

Beta alert: Don't read if you don't want beta. P2: Start off by traversing left on easy ground, don't place gear, you will have rope drag. Start placing when you start up towards the roof and extend (long runners) every piece until you turn the 2nd roof. Climb up to the first roof, pull it, use the little tree with rings/slings for a piece. Traverse right (it's all there, really!) and pull the second roof. Just reach up, over the roof and you will find a really sweet lip. Pull it and enjoy the cruiser up to the GT ledge.

The Gray Dick upgraded this climb to a 5.7 for P1. I agree, there is a 7ish crux. Although P1 is a great pitch, P2 is the money pitch. I think this is a 3 star climb. Where can you get two fun, exposed roofs at such a soft rating? Awesome climb. Jun 6, 2009

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