Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Al DeMaria, 1962
Page Views: 34,876 total · 186/month
Shared By: Guy H. on May 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This may be the best 5.8 at the Gunks: you get thin face moves, jamming, a long traverse, and a thuggish roof. For the best experience do it linked as a single pitch; it's fairly straight so rope-drag shouldn't be an issue.

Use the same access trail as for City Lights, just below the striking widening crack of Baby. The climb starts 45' left of City Lights, at a thin jagged crack with a piton about 15' up.

P1: Thin face climbing and jamming will lead to a 2' ledge. 5.8, 90'. Build your own belay either directly under the corner above, or on gear 15' to the left, or exit 30' left to the rappel bolts over Easy Overhang.

P2: Aim for the overhanging left-facing corner system. If your belay is to the left of the main corner, you can traverse 10'-15' to the right on a sandy horizontal; there are pitons at the start and end of the traverse. The climbing is steep, and the feet are not as good as you might like. Fire through the steep rock above on well-spaced jugs. When you see the last, large blocky hold in a straight line of chalked-up holds, step right onto the face above, then head straight up to the anchor. Avoid the temptation to follow the chalk and go left, this leads to a long meandering route to the finish with bad rope drag. 5.8, 70'.

There is a piton anchor below the top of the cliff. Rappel from here (single 70m, or double 60s) to avoid the pebbly gully above.

Protection

Standard rack; extra finger-size pro for combining pitches...

Photos