Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Lorens Logan, 1941
Page Views: 22,550 total · 140/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

Another Gunks moderate classic!

Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.

Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties.

P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.

P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a large, overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the GT ledge and move 30' right to another 2-bolt anchor. 5.5, 80'.

P2 variation: Move left out of the overhanging corner about halfway up and continue up the face to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'.

Descend via two rappels from bolted anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack.
"H" Lampasso
Manitou Springs
"H" Lampasso   Manitou Springs
Has anyone ever seen the frog's head? I have done it twice in the past and never saw it. I think there is reference to it in the Gunks Select guidebook put out by Dick Williams. Apr 7, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This is a good climb to link P1/P2 together for a long ~170ft lead. Sep 12, 2006
L. Hamilton  
 
The direct finish, climbing straight over the final roof instead of scrambling off left on the ledge, makes a more exciting finish to the climb. Cross the roof near an old ring piton, which fortunately can be backed up. With 60-meter rope, rap from tree back to P1 anchors. 5.6+ Jan 13, 2007
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.6
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.6
This is a great, well protected climb and is really fun, but very popular as well. A lot of the route is really polished, but the holds are big enough not to make much of a difference. Sep 2, 2007
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.6
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.6
In reference to the first post--"Has anyone ever seen the frog's head?"

Yes, or I'm almost positive I know where it is. Located about 20-25 feet off the second pitch belay on the arete that makes up the right facing corner you climb to the right of. Look closely, and the profile of this elusive amphibian appears about midway up the arete. Sep 21, 2007
Spiro Spiro
  5.6 PG13
Spiro Spiro  
  5.6 PG13
great climb, good variety of moves. Mar 22, 2008
Heather S
Dallas, TX
Heather S   Dallas, TX
Just did the first pitch of Frog's Head, traversed left at bolts to the other set of bolts, and did second pitch of City Lights. Made for a fantastic climb. Jun 1, 2009
P1: Pretty fun, a few short crack moves.

P2: Only thing I didn't like was having to trust a pin right off of the belay, didn't see a way to back it up. But there were jugs pretty much all the way up, some good steep-ish sections, plenty of pro, very fun pitch. I went all the way to the top and my second couldn't hear me yelling from there, if you have walkies use them. Also, if you go all the way to the top, you miss an easy rappel station on the ledge before the very top off to the right. May 1, 2011
Anthony Nguyen
Philadelphia
Anthony Nguyen   Philadelphia
Got on this past Saturday and got some nice beta from locals. You can finish the second pitch by pulling the roof (very chill). After that there's 10' of easy slab and a tree anchor with webbing and rap rings. Very awesome way to finish a great climb. Apr 23, 2012
kenr  
P2: My first pro was a #2 Camalot just below that fixed pin. Somehow I didn't perceive a "thin crack" after the first 20 ft of P2. I did see a shallow right-facing corner which sort of led up to the big overhanging right-facing corner -- and climbing up somewhere near that shallow corner seemed to work.

Polished? Overall it did not strike me that the rock was notably polished from grit on climbers' shoes (as often does happen to footholds in softer rock like limestone, which can get seriously slippery after they've gotten lots of dirty-shoes climber traffic).
Maybe some of the rock on Frog's Head has a higher quartz content and lower percent of embedded pebbles + granules than most Gunks routes (perhaps this is why the base section of Frog's Head has a lighter color) so some footholds might have less friction than others in the Gunks. But although I remember a shortage of obvious footholds around the P1 crux, when I did find the non-obvious smaller ones and then tried standing on them, their friction supported my foot just fine - no slipping off. Jun 4, 2012
Mthoresz  
 
Great route, very fun! We finished up with the third pitch of Maria, which made for an outstanding last pitch and overall great climb. Then walked off left down a small corner to the rap anchors for City Lights. Oct 27, 2014
Frog's Head is probably the best introduction to leading Gunks 5.6; great gear and no menacing roofs. You should feel very solid on this route before venturing onto more adventurous 6s like Madame G, High E or Shockley's. Bring a big rack and link the pitches. There's plenty of opportunity to practice with your passive chocks; tri-cams, hexes and plain old nuts. No need to trail a second rope, since two short rappels get you down comfortably, but please knot the rope ends before rapping. This area sees a TON of traffic, so show up early or be prepared to wait. May 9, 2015
Systematic
  5.6
Systematic  
  5.6
Nice climb on really solid, clean, safe rock. I second Alex's recommendation to take it all the way to the top. Just stay mindful of your rope. Good opportunity to practice rope management.

Gear beta
Small cams (up to blue alien / purple metolius) came in handy. Nov 3, 2015
HannahG99
New Paltz, NY
HannahG99   New Paltz, NY
large tree branch near bolts @ top of pitch 1 about to come down any day so be careful if you get a wind gust. May 22, 2017
Gabriel Seemann
Carlsbad, CA
Gabriel Seemann   Carlsbad, CA
Today (4/14/18) a group of 3 or 4 climbers on this route was kind enough to let me borrow their nut tool but left before I could give if back. DM me if this was you and I'll figure out how to get it back to you.Thanks Apr 14, 2018
James Elric
rockville
 
James Elric   rockville
 
under rated! Loved this route!

Perfect first 5.6 for new leaders. Ultra G rated - didn't even feel like I needed cams on P1, plenty of bomber nut placements and shiny chains at the top. Moves have a great flow and nice variety. Great feet to rest on before and after cruxes. I've never done a climb that was so relaxed yet still interesting. It's like getting quality 5.6 movement with 5.4 effort!

p.s.
There are 2 round ish rocks that make the eyes of the frog towards the top of P1. the guide book author and his Pals happened to be there to point it out to us. It was an honor to meet them. Sep 17, 2018