Avg: 3.1 from 547 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Wiessner, Lorens Logan, 1941|
|Page Views:||24,594 total · 139/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.
Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties.
P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.
P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a large, overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the GT ledge and move 30' right to another 2-bolt anchor. 5.5, 80'.
P2 variation: Move left out of the overhanging corner about halfway up and continue up the face to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'.
Descend via two rappels from bolted anchors.