Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1973|
|Page Views:||1,626 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Moskowitz on Sep 27, 2009|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P2: Step right and continue past an overhang to the GT ledge.
P3: From the GT ledge, start behind and right of a pine tree that is 40' left of the big rappel tree. Look for a right-facing flakes, and a pine tree to wrangle.
Described by Seth:
I sent my partner up pitch 3 of Rock & Brew by mistake yesterday. (We were trying to do pitch three of Morning After.) Dick says 5.8 R and I think he's right.
The starting moves up bulgy white rock would be nice except you have to fight with a pine tree to make progress. You don't really mind the tree, however, since it's the only source of pro. Then nice moves take you past the right-facing flakes with good pro.
Then you get to the real problem. You reach another pine tree and above you is a blank slab with with no pro leading to the top. The rap tree for Rusty Trifle is off to the right, but traversing over is also lacking in pro. My partner chose to traverse to the rap tree, risking a pendulum if he fell. His choice left me with the same pendulum risk as a second. Served me right.
If I'd been leading I probably would have put my cordalette around the top pine on Rock & Brew and bailed. The pitch was pretty decent up to that point, but i don't recommend it.