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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1950 Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden
Page Views: 2,644 total, 33/month
Shared By: Stefano Prezioso on Apr 4, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Fun first pitch, with easy, wandering climbing to the top.

P1) Go up the left-facing corner about 30 feet, then traverse right for 30 feet (crux) to a ledge. 5.5

P2) Climb up and right to a large block, then up and left to a right facing corner. Go up this corner and continue straight to the overhangs. After, go up and left to the GT Ledge, belay off tree. 5.3

P3) Go up the face right of a big block to an overhang. Go up and right, then up and left, and pass a small, white, right-facing corner to a pine tree belay/rap station. 5.3

Make sure to protect as well as possible on the traverse to avoid a large pendulum for the second.

Location

Shares a start with Bloody Mary, a few feet right of Morning After. 15 foot high left-facing corner with a crack approximately 30 feet high.

Rappel straight down with a single rope in three rappels off of trees.

Protection

P1 Anchor takes smaller gear and tricams in pockets.

P2 & 3 are tree belays.

Standard rack. Climb takes lots of nuts and tricams. A few old fixed pins scattered about.

Photos

Joe Kain
Philadelphia, PA
Joe Kain   Philadelphia, PA
(Perhaps obvious) Beta Alert: An old pin sitting below the first traverse can fool you into heading down low rather than moving across the roof. Once I clipped it I found myself cursing and shuffling up and down the wall above the pin for a half hour looking for something positive to grab onto in order to reach the webbed anchor that sits along the traverse next to a bush. I finally backtracked the traverse and moved back up to the roof to find easier terrain. May 21, 2017
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
5.5 PG13
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
5.5 PG13
I gave this a PG13 rating for the traverse, however, it would be a PG rating if that was an option. The gear on the traverse is ok; it's there, but not necessarily straightforward. When your primary gear before the crux is a micro nut and a screamer on a decrepit pin, it can't quite be G rated when it's a 5.5 climb. I was able to get a piece in not too far after the pin (at what I considered the end of the crux), and then it was a series of flared/muddy horizontals. As far as those folks saying the pins offer protection: seriously, NO! Those are exposed ring pins in the middle of the traverse and the first pin is in decent shape but shouldn't be counted on. They are probably 50 years old. Midway through the traverse there is a muddy flared crack system that takes tricams nicely.

I ended up leading the whole climb on tricams, nuts, and a single clipped pin. The rest of the climb beyond the traverse is straight forward. Definitely the 5.3 option is a good beginners climb. Mar 3, 2016
awolf
New York, NY
awolf   New York, NY
Overall liked the route. Thought the traverse protected quite well and there were sufficient holds if you find them. Thought the second pitch was the best- unusual to get such a fun roof at only 5.3. Also did the "Trusty Feet" variation which I'd recommend. Jan 30, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.

Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT. Aug 4, 2015
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.5
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.5
The first pitch of this is definitely worth doing. The climbing up to the traverse is easy, the traverse protects very well and it ends with a nice jughaul up to a pine tree rap station. Great way to really appreciate good ol' gunks traversing. Apr 19, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Kevin, not sure what you are talking about with no pro for the first 20 feet. There are old pins and decent placements during the entire traverse. It's a great climb and the traverse adds some fun to the 5.3 pitches above. If you are a new leader, I would recommend skipping the 5.5 traverse and starting from the Bloody Bush ledge. Much fun climbing on this route. Oct 15, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Overall a fun, almost-accurate 5.3 Gunks climb. The 5.5 start from the left has no protection for the leader or the follower for about 20 feet. A swing would scrape you up, but there are no corners to swing into and there's no ground fall potential. Also there are virtually no hands for a few of those 20 feet. The anchor at P1 (5.5) is small gear and tricams.

Pitches 2 and 3 were almost on grade, with great Gunky face climbing and plenty of protection. The only non-5.3 section was the last couple of moves at the very top of P2, I found them to be maybe 5.4 or 5.5-ish.

Definitely a sleeper climb and something I'd bring beginners on. Apr 10, 2011