Rusty Trifle
5.5,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.1 from 110
votes
FA: 1950 Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden
New York
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Description
Fun first pitch, with easy, wandering climbing to the top.
P1) Go up the left-facing corner about 30 feet, then traverse right for 30 feet (crux) to a ledge. 5.5
P2) Climb up and right to a large block, then up and left to a right facing corner. Go up this corner and continue straight to the overhangs. After, go up and left to the GT Ledge, belay off tree. 5.3
P3) Go up the face right of a big block to an overhang. Go up and right, then up and left, and pass a small, white, right-facing corner to a pine tree belay/rap station. 5.3
Make sure to protect as well as possible on the traverse to avoid a large pendulum for the second.
Location
Shares a start with Bloody Mary, a few feet right of Morning After. 15 foot high left-facing corner with a crack approximately 30 feet high.
Rappel straight down with a single rope in three rappels off of trees.
Protection
P1 Anchor takes smaller gear and tricams in pockets.
P2 & 3 are tree belays.
Standard rack. Climb takes lots of nuts and tricams. A few old fixed pins scattered about.
Las Vegas, NV
Pitches 2 and 3 were almost on grade, with great Gunky face climbing and plenty of protection. The only non-5.3 section was the last couple of moves at the very top of P2, I found them to be maybe 5.4 or 5.5-ish.
Definitely a sleeper climb and something I'd bring beginners on. Apr 10, 2011
Gardiner, NY
Espanola, NM
New Paltz
Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT. Aug 4, 2015
New York, NY
Saratoga County, NY
I ended up leading the whole climb on tricams, nuts, and a single clipped pin. The rest of the climb beyond the traverse is straight forward. Definitely the 5.3 option is a good beginners climb. Mar 3, 2016
Philadelphia, PA
Westchester County, NY
Megalopolis Adjacent
High Falls NY
Napanoch, NY
CT
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