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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Art Gran, Phil Jacobus, and John Hudson 1960. FFA: Dick Williams 1964
Page Views: 2,619 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

A classic roof problem that serves as a great introduction to harder roofs.

P1: Climb the small left-facing corner to a small stance. Surf right then back left through a deceptive little sequence. Head up the main left-facing corner to the roof. Pull over this (crux) to arrive at the fixed rap anchor.

There is a second and third pitch but most rap here.

Location

On a face 40 feet right of Maria and 15 feet left of Sixish, below left side of the obvious roof.

Protection

Standard rack, microcams or slider nuts may be helpful.

Photos

rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Jean is left of Sixish, not right of Sixish as the current location text says. Aug 7, 2016
There is a knee lock mid way through the roof moves that allows you to have a full no-hands rest. I always liked the look on the face of a belayer when reaching back with both hands to chalk up Dec 5, 2014
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
Interesting climb, worth doing. It's a strenous roof, good intro to harder roof climbs at the Gunks. Jun 23, 2014
IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
I just tried this tonight in the dark and took the whipper! The roof is reachy for me at 5'5", but I probably missed a foothold.. Aug 4, 2011
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
first pitch is nice; thoughtful 5.7 or so to the roof. make sure your gear under the roof is solid as the moves over the roof are committing. reminds me a bit of the roof on Birdcage. Mar 24, 2011
Worthwhile, quite strenuous. Largely ignored. I did this with a friend who weighed almost 200 lbs. He couldn't do the roof and I lowered him with my head braced against a tree, on a waist belay, shirtless. Nice slow rope burn. Feb 19, 2008