Avg: 2 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||FFA Dick Williams and Bill Goldner, 1965|
|Page Views:||1,310 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Rui Ferreira on Jun 27, 2010|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Make a delicate move to an intermediate stance at the start of the flake, place some mediocre gear (#2 Ball Nut, #3 WC Stone). Step up to a good undercling and place a #0 Metolius Master Cam (or similar) back left before fully embarking into the crux. There is risk of serious injury if one were to fall before placing this micro cam.
Committing moves through the flake get you to the horizontal with an angle pin (along with grass and dirt...); back the pin up with a small can. From here reach for the right facing corner above and to the right (lousy feet). The crux is only over when you're standing after completing this sequence.
Step left and climb the face straight up until you're a few feet below a short left-facing corner; from here angle up and right to the top of the Baby P1 and its bolt anchor.