Avg: 1.6 from 7 votes
Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
|Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||FFA Dick Williams and Bill Goldner, 1965|
|Page Views:||925 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Rui Ferreira on Jun 27, 2010|
DescriptionDiagonal up and left through some blocks to a big ledge below the obvious right arching flake. The first piece of gear goes on a vertical crack below this big ledge (below your feet).
Make a delicate move to an intermediate stance at the start of the flake, place some mediocre gear (#2 Ball Nut, #3 WC Stone). Step up to a good undercling and place a #0 Metolius Master Cam (or similar) back left before fully embarking into the crux. There is risk of serious injury if one were to fall before placing this micro cam.
Committing moves through the flake get you to the horizontal with an angle pin (along with grass and dirt...); back the pin up with a small can. From here reach for the right facing corner above and to the right (lousy feet). The crux is only over when you're standing after completing this sequence.
Step left and climb the face straight up until you're a few feet below a short left-facing corner; from here angle up and right to the top of the Baby P1 and its bolt anchor.
LocationStart slightly left of Baby.
Belay and rap down from two bolt anchor at the top of Baby P1, or finish by the upper pitch of any nearby route - Baby, Easy Overhang, Son of Easy O - and walk off via the Uberfall Descent.
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