Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1984
Page Views: 1,587 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

If you're looking for an alternate 1st pitch to Frog's Head, this IS the line.

It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).

Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head and/or Maria, so you may have to negotiate for space.

Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.

A second pitch wanders up looser rock to the GT ledge, again just right of Frog's Head. You can also finish with P2 of Maria, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria).

Descent: rappel from chains.

Location

10 feet to the right of Frog's Head.

Protection

A standard rack. Yellow Camalot for the crux moves down low is helpful.

Photos

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