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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Billy Shears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Easy Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Heather / Cheating on Heather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Maria Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Night Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sixish Roof T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trusty Rifle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wick's Banana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,548 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
If you're looking for an alternate 1st pitch to Frog's Head, this IS the line.
It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).
Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head and/or Maria, so you may have to negotiate for space.
Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.
Pitch two continues up past two LA pitons in a small hanging left facing corner. Continue straight up clean rock without much gear - easier out right but loose. Continue up through steeper sandy rock just right of Frog’s Head’s arching right facing corner on good holds. Can easily be linked with the first pitch. 5.7R.
You can also finish with P2 of Maria, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria).
Descent: rappel from chains.
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