Avg: 1.7 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1984|
|Page Views:||2,034 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).
Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head and/or Maria, so you may have to negotiate for space.
Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.
A second pitch wanders up looser rock to the GT ledge, again just right of Frog's Head. You can also finish with P2 of Maria, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria).
Descent: rappel from chains.