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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1984
Page Views: 1,440 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details

Description

If you're looking for an alternate 1st pitch to Frog's Head, this IS the line.

It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).

Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head and/or Maria, so you may have to negotiate for space.

Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.

A second pitch wanders up looser rock to the GT ledge, again just right of Frog's Head. You can also finish with P2 of Maria, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria).

Descent: rappel from chains.

Location

10 feet to the right of Frog's Head.

Protection

A standard rack. Yellow Camalot for the crux moves down low is helpful.

Photos

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JSH

JSH    
The crux is quite a thoughtful then committing move, with gear below your feet, and seemed pretty hard-8 to me.

We continued up the second pitch of Kama Sutra, which goes straight up from the double-bolt rappel anchor mid-cliff. It seemed very PG, and very 5.6++, especially right at the top ... I would not put a 5.6 leader on it, to be sure. Not sure I ever want to lead it, myself! Apr 20, 2010
I've done the second pitch of Kama Sutra, and Julie's impressions seem accurate to me. The protection is good, but there is no distinct line, the rock quality in a few spots is mediocre, there's a fair amount of dirt from runoff, and it's harder than 5.6. Mar 25, 2011
Phredward
Brooklyn, NY
Phredward   Brooklyn, NY
It's also possible to start on the front of the block making use of the arete on the right. Oct 29, 2016

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