Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1984
Page Views: 2,548 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

If you're looking for an alternate 1st pitch to Frog's Head, this IS the line.

It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).

Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head and/or Maria, so you may have to negotiate for space.

Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.

Pitch two continues up past two LA pitons in a small hanging left facing corner. Continue straight up clean rock without much gear - easier out right but loose. Continue up through steeper sandy rock just right of Frog’s Head’s arching right facing corner on good holds. Can easily be linked with the first pitch. 5.7R.

You can also finish with P2 of Maria, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria).

Descent: rappel from chains.

Location Suggest change

10 feet to the right of Frog's Head.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack. Yellow Camalot for the crux moves down low is helpful.

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