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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jack Hansen, 1959
Page Views: 4,107 total, 29/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jun 1, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A classic first pitch that was first led after pins were placed on rappel.

P1: Start at a short left-facing corner 25’ right of Son of Easy O and just left of City Lights. Climb the outside corner and face to its right, up to a horizontal hand traverse. Move left to a crack, follow it for several moves, then angle up and right to follow the face to the bolt anchors at the ledge. 5.8, 80'.

Direct start - 5.10b, PG13/R. Great but tricky to protect; hence the "R" rating. Follow the thin crack straight up from the ground. You can place a nut in the corner and a small RP up high which prevents you from decking. Have your partner ready to stop drop and roll if you come off.

P2: Climb up and right from the bolted anchor, to the cliff top.

Rappel City Lights, or use Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard rack - plenty of small gear.

Photos

WillK  
So I took a look at the Gunks app before getting on this route and I believed I followed the topo by going far right at the beginning, until I reached another vertical crack. I then stepped up and moved back all the way left to get back to the crack of the direct line. I also did a foot traverse instead of a hand traverse. It was easy to balance so those tiny crimps were enough for hands...up to a point. At some spot before the direct line crack, I wasn't liking the idea of continuing doing the foot traverse. So I climbed back down a few feet before I continued left. I also continued left past the direct line crack so I could get to that nice rest. It was probably a little more than an arm's length to the left of the direct line crack. I didn't have doubles and I was pretty nervous doing all that traversing so close to the ground.

Long story short, should do hand traverse like everyone else here has been saying. Oct 10, 2016
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Overall I really enjoyed this route though it was a mental challenge for me. I was lucky that someone familiar with the route was climbing nearby and could shout up some tips for me on where to go. The climbing is super interesting and thoughtful, but very thin and sustained. The 5.4 P2 is a fun jaunt but not really much in comparison to P1.

I thought the crux came relatively low, with a move left and up into the thin crack that I did with a double gaston. There are nut and small cam placements there to protect this move, but have your belayer be on their A-game.

I'd give this a solid PG-13 but I would hesitate to call it R. I was armed with doubles in cams below 0.5, double nuts, and the black tricam (which proved critical). The gear was thin and never as good as you wanted, but lo and behold every eight feet or so another slightly disappointing placement would appear as if out of thin air---if you stayed on route! Finally about twenty feet below the finish I found a bomber green Camalot placement and felt the fear of a serious fall evaporate.

I found the combination of the sustained nature of the climb, the solid PG-13 gear, and the vague routefinding to be a challenge. Not a climb for folks not 100% confident on thin 5.8. Apr 18, 2016
Kenr - you're correct, hand traversing leftwards PAST the crack is what DW advises. Going straight up the crack from mid traverse is 8+ or harder. And it is SO EASY to get suckered into getting too high for those traversing moves!

There used to be some fixed gear (pins) on the first 3rd of the pitch that made everything feel a bit less stressful, but alas, they're all gone. And finding solid gear in the blunt horizontals is really quite challenging. You keep thinking, "The next one will take gear" only to step up to another shallow horizontal seam. Full-on PG/R IMO (PG if the goofy Tricam holds; R if it doesn't) Sep 14, 2015
kenr  
On P1, people I was climbing with thought it was easier to continue the hand traverse left on past the obvious crack from below and continue several feet past the crack leading above. Then a mantle up to a stance, then back right and up to join the obvious crack above a bit higher. Which also seems to be what the Williams guidebook suggests.

I've done the more obvious way of starting up in the crack immediately from the hand traverse three times, and I like it -- but delicate, tricky, seems harder than 5.8

To me the 10b start Variation seems harder than most other 10b sequences I've tried in the Gunks (but maybe I just need better beta?) Jun 3, 2014
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.8 PG13
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.8 PG13
The pin is still gone at the crux but there is a pod below it that has a pebble that keeps falling to the bottom and blocking a perfect nut placement. I cleaned it out as best I could and jammed the pebble to the top of the pod but I think sooner or later it will drop again. It's very difficult to move it up and slot a nut while holding on with one hand. It's also bigger than the opening of the pod and needs to be split in halve to evacuate it completely. Not something I wanted to do and create a shit storm, but it would ease a perfect placement. Apr 21, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
I wonder how long the pin at the crux has been gone. There definitely isn't much protection up through there but the moves flow nicely...just keep climbing till you find another placement. :-) Nov 1, 2013
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
I found this climb fun but definitely somewhere between PG and dangerous. It seemed runout above the crux but the crux is well protected. Nov 28, 2011
JSH

JSH    
The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help. Jul 31, 2009
September '76, third day ever climbing. We both fail; lower off crux pin, leave biner. Sulking a bit, then notice a tall chap with a coiled rope over his shoulder, angling up solo from the left. He's wearing a white cap.
"That your biner?"
"Yeah."
"You want it?"
"Uh, sure. But don't put yourself out, man."
A few moves further, drops us the biner...then easily continues up a thin line left of Pas de Deux. At the same time we both say, "It's Henry Barber."
He finishes the pitch--Heather, I believe it's called--and joins someone on the Son of Easy O belay. He clips an old pin and galavants over the big roof to the right, down, back up. Feb 19, 2008