Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jack Hansen, 1959
Page Views: 5,690 total · 31/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jun 1, 2006
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

A classic first pitch that was first led after pins were placed on rappel.

P1: Start at a short left-facing corner 25’ right of Son of Easy O and just left of City Lights. Climb the outside corner and face to its right, up to a horizontal hand traverse. Move left to a crack, follow it for several moves, then angle up and right to follow the face to the bolt anchors at the ledge. 5.8, 80'.

Direct start - 5.10b, PG13/R. Great but tricky to protect; hence the "R" rating. Follow the thin crack straight up from the ground. You can place a nut in the corner and a small RP up high which prevents you from decking. Have your partner ready to stop drop and roll if you come off.

P2: Climb up and right from the bolted anchor, to the cliff top.

Rappel City Lights, or use Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard rack - plenty of small gear.

Photos