Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Mary Cecil, Betty Woolsey, 1941
Page Views: 15,538 total · 88/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

If you can't climb wide cracks, this route will seem a lot harder than 5.6!

From the Uberfall, walk about 2.5 minutes down the carriage road, past the big corner and roof of Matinee, to a huge boulder just below the cliff. Take the access trail just beyond the boulder, and angle left to the cliff, on the left side of the huge boulder. Baby is the striking, widening crack directly above the access trail.

P1: Climb the crack to the wide section. Place a 3-4" piece for pro, and head up into the offwidth (crux). A 5-inch piece is necessary if you want gear to protect the crux; otherwise you're at least 5-10' above gear as you commit to the wide. Continue up the face above to a big ledge with lots of loose rock and a bolted anchor. 5.6, 80'.

P2: Climb a left-facing corner and an overhang to the top. This pitch can be sandy after a recent rain. 5.6, 60'.

Descent: From the cliff top, rappel from the bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard Rack, plus anything wide (4-5") you have! If you don't have 5-inch gear, be prepared to run it out up the offwidth, where a fall would be ill-advised. The offwidth used to have a chockstone that one could sling for protection - the guidebooks don't reflect the change in protection ratings.

Photos