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Routes in b. Jackie and friends
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5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ape and Essence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Back Door Betty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Daydream T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+ |
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Incremental Adaptation T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jasmine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Late Show, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Bailey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Radcliffe Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tweedledum T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vast Deference T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Word of Mouth T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 41.73755, -74.18693 |
| FA: | FA: Yvon Chouinard & Jim Andress - 1961FFA: Jim McCarthy & John Hudson - 1963 |
| Page Views: | 14,033 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Chris Vultaggio, M Santisi |
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Description
Two short pitches that are very different in character.
From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.
P1 (5.10, 50'): At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pillar to belay.
P2 (5.10d, 75'): Step back right from the pillar, and head up a very steep, powerful corner system using jugs and jams. Continue up and left to belay at a tree.
Descent: walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.
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