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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Yvon Chouinard & Jim Andress - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy & John Hudson - 1963
Page Views: 9,847 total, 68/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Two short pitches that are very different in character.

From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.

P1: At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pillar to belay. 5.10, 50'.

P2: Step back right from the pillar, and head up a very steep, powerful corner system using jugs and jams. Continue up and left to belay at a tree. 5.10d, 75'.

Descent: walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard Rack.
P1 was interesting. I did not like the slick feet but enjoyed the tricky tension move right before grabbing the lip on the traverse. However, the gear placements are so small. I think I got in one or two #.3 C4, then towards the end of the traverse (still before grabbing the outer lip) I tried a #.1,.2,red ball nut, and finally got an orange ball nut at the end of its range to fit (all while burning my calves on those tiny, slick footholds). Once I got past the lip I added a #.75 C4 and nut and finished the traverse. My second fell near the end of that traverse and the ball nut popped (.75/nut held). So she took a tumble and pendulumed toward me over to the pedestal (helmet took the impact, no injury, just shook up).
So if I ever do this again, I'd skip the P1 traverse and just do an easy way up the pedestal, then enjoy the fun and more protectable P2. Jul 13, 2016
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10d
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10d
Somewhat forgettable climbing. Each crux consists of one sequence. The quality of the first pitch is significantly compromised by the slickness of the feet. More like 10b than 10d.

The second pitch is hard, but the actual climbing consists of about two moves. Jun 8, 2011
Overgraded?! I don't think so. I have always found Matinee to be the hardest 5.10 in the Gunks. Gives me much more trouble than Coex, Graveyard, Winter as well as few 5.11's. The first pitch can certainly become familiar and purely technical if you know where all the holds are, but the second pitch is BURLY! No way that it is overgraded. A good hard climb, but certainly not soft. Jan 19, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Bitchin' easy if you got the guns. Maybe one of the only routes that is overgraded !!! I recall a similar photo of my man Al Rubin in similar distress wearing robbin's boots. HOLY SHIT !!! john Jan 14, 2009
Brad Parry  
 
What a route. This history, the variety of movement...

The anchor in the middle of the second pitch??????? wtf.

Quality climbing for the entirety of the two pitches. Oct 25, 2007
Eastvillage
New York, NY
Eastvillage   New York, NY
The photo is great, what a time capsule. How about the blue pin-striped collar shirt, with the brown sweater? Standard issue prep school look.
Great days. May 18, 2007
Ivan's been populating the Gunks site with great stories from the day, so here's mine on Matinee:

In 1978, Barber was at his peak as the world's best on sight trad climber and the leader of the Gunks A-team. On a perfect fall day, I had finished Ape Call with a partner and settled onto the Matinee ledge to watch Henry send.

We all threw for the crux second pitch jug in those days, but Henry static'd gracefully through the corner, perfect position all the way to the belay. His belayers each roped up in turn, threw for the jug and each missed, twice.

Henry was getting sick of catching these goombahs on big falls around his waist. I asked if I could step up to the plate, got the nod, and sent it first go. Did my best to style through the corners above.

Henry saw the uncontrollable grin on my face at the stance. "Nice job" he said, graciously. A 19-year old Vassar sophmore, complimented by the world's greatest rock climber.

While I've climbed with Henry on several occasions since then, on that day he became my hero.



Oct 1, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
A great climb with great moves. Doable at any height, but not with the same beta. My 5'0" partner made short work of it with a totally different sequence than me, and I did it differently than Ivan suggests. Mar 6, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There are 2 ways to do P1. A tricky undercling, or a cartwheel, if you're tall enough, to reach a finger lock. Both end at a layback off a black horn from which you can clip a fixed pin. It's a big, but understandable, mistake to reach for the lip too soon.

P2 was never easy for me. As I got stronger over the years, the holds got worse as they crumbled away. I usually had to lunge it. There's a more elegant stemming way, which I may have done once. Feb 22, 2006