Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus and Dick Hirshland
Page Views: 11,246 total · 76/month
Shared By: John Peterson on May 28, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Unfortunately MP doesn't have the option of rating this 5.4+. In the Gunks, this means that it's a 5.4 that's particularly gripping. Probably a tough lead for a 5.4 climber so I've called it 5.5.

P1: Start one of two ways: up the corner about 8 feet to an undercling right (5.6) or up flakes about 10' right of the corner (see beta photo). Both lead to a good ledge about 25' up. Then up the corner (steep!) to an overhang - swing left on jugs and pull onto a small ledge with an anchor (ancient fixed pins that you should back up). Belay here or continue up to the GT. Be careful with runners if you want to go all the way to the GT.

P2: Step left and climb up horizontals to an easy flake. Then head up to a fixed pin, aiming right for a crack system that leads to the GT. This part is very nice exposed 5.4 face climbing.

P3: At the GT, step off a big block to the face just left of the huge roof. Climb about 20' up and then work right (crux) below one roof and above the other. Spectacular! At the right end go up a crack to the top. 5.4.

From the GT, you can rappel (two ropes; there is a mid-anchor, but it's really not pretty) from a tree to the right over Drunkard's Delight. From the clifftop, descend via the Uberfall Descent.

Location

An obvious right-facing corner just right of the Jean roof, and left of Drunkard's Delight. Scramble up behind a block to start.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos