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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wick's Banana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Hans Kraus, Susanne Simon - 1941 |
| Page Views: | 14,533 total · 103/month |
| Shared By: | saxfiend on Sep 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Fun climbing, Easy O works as a good novice lead or a warm-up for harder stuff.
P1 - Starting from the top of a pile of boulders, head up and left past a right-facing flake to a chimney. Climb the chimney; near its top, move left onto the face and up to a ledge (be careful of the plentiful loose rock). There are rappel bolts here. 5.1, 80'.
P2 - Move right on the ledge, then diagonal up and right to a left-facing corner and up to an overhang. Pass this overhang on the right and continue up to another overhang, then escape right to a small ledge (optional belay). Continue up the face to the top. 5.2, 80'.
P1 - Starting from the top of a pile of boulders, head up and left past a right-facing flake to a chimney. Climb the chimney; near its top, move left onto the face and up to a ledge (be careful of the plentiful loose rock). There are rappel bolts here. 5.1, 80'.
P2 - Move right on the ledge, then diagonal up and right to a left-facing corner and up to an overhang. Pass this overhang on the right and continue up to another overhang, then escape right to a small ledge (optional belay). Continue up the face to the top. 5.2, 80'.
Location
Starts on top of the boulder pile right of Baby, and left of the striking crack and white face of Son of Easy O.
Descent: rappel from the pins at the end of the 2nd pitch, above Son of Easy O (70m required), or walk off via Uberfall Descent. There is also a bolted anchor at the midway ledge.
Descent: rappel from the pins at the end of the 2nd pitch, above Son of Easy O (70m required), or walk off via Uberfall Descent. There is also a bolted anchor at the midway ledge.
Decatur, GA
Easton, PA
I think the overhang on P2 is 5.2 only if the climber sees the best sequence (and is strong and confident). Otherwise could be troublesome for a beginner. Also the moves right off the ground on P1 could be tricky: Make sure you demonstrate them carefully if taking a beginner.
I find P1 to be more interesting and enjoyable than P2. P1 offers a variety of situatons inside the wide chimney and going around corners out onto the face, and finishes at a spacious ledge with a great view. While P2 has this odd overhang, and then what(?) - and seems like the first half of P2 has dirt on the holds. Jun 9, 2013
Park Slope, NY
New Paltz, NY
Rope drag is okay if you extend everything, but a leader climbing at the grade might get tripped up by rope drag due to the wandering nature of the route. Sep 11, 2017
Canandaigua (city), NY
New York, NY
There was a loose block about a foot wide chalk-marked with an X wedged in there. It looks loose already if you're looking carefully at the routes. Oct 3, 2018
New Paltz, NY