Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Susanne Simon - 1941
Page Views: 14,533 total · 103/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


225 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

Fun climbing, Easy O works as a good novice lead or a warm-up for harder stuff.

P1 - Starting from the top of a pile of boulders, head up and left past a right-facing flake to a chimney. Climb the chimney; near its top, move left onto the face and up to a ledge (be careful of the plentiful loose rock). There are rappel bolts here. 5.1, 80'.

P2 - Move right on the ledge, then diagonal up and right to a left-facing corner and up to an overhang. Pass this overhang on the right and continue up to another overhang, then escape right to a small ledge (optional belay). Continue up the face to the top. 5.2, 80'.

Location

Starts on top of the boulder pile right of Baby, and left of the striking crack and white face of Son of Easy O.

Descent: rappel from the pins at the end of the 2nd pitch, above Son of Easy O (70m required), or walk off via Uberfall Descent. There is also a bolted anchor at the midway ledge.

Protection

Standard rack, no specialty gear needed. Shares anchors with Son of Easy O.
Fun easy route. Spring '77 took a girl up this and she literally froze at the second belay. (Small ledge, very exposed.) For about 30 seconds she just stared into space. Soloed a few times--once stoned, wearing work boots. I miss college.... Feb 19, 2008
Where else can a 5.2 get 3.5 stars? Gotta love the Gunks. Jun 17, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.2
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.2
If it's raining but you've just gotta climb something, Easy O is a good route in wet conditions. Better than sitting inside wishing you were climbing, anyway. Oct 13, 2010
Larry S
Easton, PA
Larry S   Easton, PA
The anchor/rap station shared w/ son of easy o seems to have been replaced recently. 3 good looking angle pitons with chains. Still lots of loose gravel at the top, so be mindfull of those below if you opt for the top out. Nov 12, 2012
kenr
  5.3 PG13
kenr  
  5.3 PG13
The new chains + rings at the optional belay 50 feet up on P2 (which is also the top anchor for Son of Easy O) makes it easy for the leader to stop there and maintain good communinication with a follower who might be having trouble with the overhang low on P2. Or having trouble with the slopy mantle just before the the optional belay.

I think the overhang on P2 is 5.2 only if the climber sees the best sequence (and is strong and confident). Otherwise could be troublesome for a beginner. Also the moves right off the ground on P1 could be tricky: Make sure you demonstrate them carefully if taking a beginner.

I find P1 to be more interesting and enjoyable than P2. P1 offers a variety of situatons inside the wide chimney and going around corners out onto the face, and finishes at a spacious ledge with a great view. While P2 has this odd overhang, and then what(?) - and seems like the first half of P2 has dirt on the holds. Jun 9, 2013
Skip Thompson
Park Slope, NY
 
Skip Thompson   Park Slope, NY
 
I climbed it yesterday, and thought the 5.3 "Indecent Exposure" variation made the whole climb totally worth it. If you like a little exposure for a set of 3-4 moves on the top of P1 of Son of Easy O, then edge out onto the face 15 ft. before getting to the optional belay station (with the chains and rap rings). Fun stuff. May 7, 2014
I know who put in the three new pitons! My climbing mentor sent and told me about it. Pretty stoked find the right time to put it up myself. Putting up drunkards tomorrow. Oct 28, 2016
David K
New Paltz, NY
  5.2
David K   New Paltz, NY
  5.2
I can see how this might be a 4 star route if it were cleaner, but given the dirt and loose rock, this is definitely just okay.

Rope drag is okay if you extend everything, but a leader climbing at the grade might get tripped up by rope drag due to the wandering nature of the route. Sep 11, 2017
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
 
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
 
P2 has a move immediately off the belay which might be more of a 5.4 move. Its exposed but more importantly, the good holds are just out of reach so you have to get creative. I find it difficult to grade stuff below 5.7, but considering most of the descent routes are 5.1 (i.e. ropeless) in the Gunks, I'm going to go with 5.2 meaning you don't have to think about the moves at all and there are tons of options. Jul 22, 2018
Raja Hamid
New York, NY
 
Raja Hamid   New York, NY
 
P2 was run out for me but the climbing was easy. Struggled to find gear placements as a new trad leader.

There was a loose block about a foot wide chalk-marked with an X wedged in there. It looks loose already if you're looking carefully at the routes. Oct 3, 2018
David K
New Paltz, NY
  5.2
David K   New Paltz, NY
  5.2
Sizeable clean-looking broken rocks at the base and on the ledge indicate that there was some recent rockfall here. Be careful and wear helmets! Mar 28, 2019 · Temporary Report