Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.2 from 6
FA: Dick Williams
> c. Frog's Head - the…
Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1) Climb the right facing feature and pull an easy roof to a dirty overgrown ledge. Head up to an obvious left pointing flake. Diagonal rightish before traversing left for obvious crack you can see from the ground. This crack is capped by a roof/crux. Again, pull this dirty roof (maybe just right of the crack). The pitch ends on a ledge with a small tree, there is no rap station as of Sept, 2013.
P2) Go straight up through the lichen. There is a left-facing flake feature and a piton you can look for. Grey Dick says there is a bolted belay, but there is not. Continue to the GT ledge and belay.
You can rap Maria's bolted stations. Both pitches can be combined easily.
This route is just right of the Maria
corner. To start, look right from the thin crack of Maria Redirect
to find an obvious right-arching feature leading to a shallow roof about 10ft up. Look up higher for the vertical crack leading to the crux roof. The route is dirty and covered in lichen up high, but it does exist.
Old rusty pitons here and there. Standard rack is fine, but the route is run out and wanders. Bring extra slings.