Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jack Taylor, Lester Germer, 1952
Page Views: 20,515 total · 117/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: RJ B

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Jackie is a popular moderate climb to the left of Classic which includes a fun roof on P1. It's a good route for early leaders, as protection is plentiful and the line is fairly straight.

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

P1: Follow a crack system up and left to a short right-facing dihedral with a small overhang, directly behind a tree. Continue up the face to a larger overhang (piton) with big holds. Protect your follower after you've pulled the roof, then move 15' right to belay at bolt anchor shared with Classic. 5.5, 80'.

If you're setting this up for newer followers, make sure to protect the roof well for them; otherwise they'll have to pass the roof to the right, which is much harder than 5.5, and usually involves a lot of noise.

P2: Start above where you pulled the roof; angle left, passing the overhang to the face above. 5.3, 80'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor to climber's right (2015). If it's a busy day, you might want to to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos