Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jack Taylor, Lester Germer, 1952
Page Views: 17,774 total · 115/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


452 Opinions

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Description

Jackie is a popular moderate climb to the left of Classic which includes a fun roof on P1. It's a good route for early leaders, as protection is plentiful and the line is fairly straight.

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

P1: Follow a crack system up and left to a short right-facing dihedral with a small overhang, directly behind a tree. Continue up the face to a larger overhang (piton) with big holds. Protect your follower after you've pulled the roof, then move 15' right to belay at bolt anchor shared with Classic. 5.5, 80'.

If you're setting this up for newer followers, make sure to protect the roof well for them; otherwise they'll have to pass the roof to the right, which is much harder than 5.5, and usually involves a lot of noise.

P2: Start above where you pulled the roof; angle left, passing the overhang to the face above. 5.3, 80'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor to climber's right (2015). If it's a busy day, you might want to to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard Rack
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Love to finish this climb with various second pitches. You can go right and do P2 of Classic, or straight up through the bulge is fun too, or left a bit for the traditional finish. All are easy and fun.

Second pitches in the Gunks are where the fun and adventure come into play. Try wandering a little bit. It may be dirty but you can always downclimb if you don't like what you see. Jul 28, 2006
JSH

 
JSH    
 
P2 of Classic is a -great- finish to Jackie, and lets you avoid the clusterf***/crowds by walking off instead of rappelling. Sep 2, 2007
losbill
 
losbill  
 
What Adam said about second pitches.
Also agree going straight up through the bulge on P2 of Jackie definitely adds a bit of interest to the pitch. Oct 6, 2007
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This has got to be one of the best 5's in the world. It's happy, fun, a little bit of "spice" with the two roofs. A great climb for an aspiring 5.5 leader. With great pro, a 5.5 leader should have no problem going for the moves. Jun 17, 2010
Warning to 5.5 climbers, save some strength for the final roof at the end of pitch 1(as seen in pictures)It may challenge 5.5 climbers abilities. Apr 19, 2012
Took JSH's advice and did P2 of Classic, I really enjoyed doing it that way and recommend it to others. May 24, 2012
BIG Climber
Irvine, CA
  5.5
BIG Climber   Irvine, CA
  5.5
If you choose to avoid the final roof on P1 by moving left and then travesing back above the roof right to the anchors, be cautious of a very loose 12"x 12" block that could be accidentally kicked free. Aug 9, 2012
kenr  
I agree with Ian Dibbs above and thought the overhang at the top of Pitch 1 takes some real arm strength if you don't have the height/reach. You can be as good as you want with rock sense or dancing your feet, which are key to the lower and middle crux sections of Pitch 1, but if you don't have the arm strength (or reach), you're not getting through that top crux. Nov 12, 2012
Joshua Wise
Mountain View, CA
  5.5
Joshua Wise   Mountain View, CA
  5.5
As a novice leader, I was certainly sketching around the first overhang, but I feel like I was probably sketching somewhat less than I was on pitch 2 of Beginner's Delight. Certainly more delightful for this beginner! Nov 25, 2016
So lots of folks know that climbing the 2nd pitch of Classic is a great way to go after P1 of Jackie. But it can get even better - climb the arete that's just left of Classic's P2 dihedral. Details and photo:
mountainproject.com/v/11237… Dec 5, 2016