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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 325 total, 26/month
Shared By: Joel Ryan on Dec 7, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

  • This route has surely been climbed before, so someone please speak up if they have name or FA information. I gave it a 5.easy grade, but this thing is really unrateable.

This is a true odyssey into the belly of the Gunks. Not for the faint of heart, nor the large of gut.

Start between RMC/Jane and Raubenheimer Special. Head up the blocky face towards the chimney until you are a few feet above the bottom of the chimney. Keep your follower in mind while you traverse right into the chimney, staying above the floor for full value. With a sporting attitude and decent chimney technique, you can make it all the way to a sharp corner without touching the ground. Make a belay and bring up your perplexed follower.

Resist the temptation to walk towards the light; your journey is not over. Mentally prepare yourself for the battle ahead and make sure you rack on one side so you don't get caught on your gear, though I can't remember which side that is. Start up the hand crack in the corner, using your belayer's head as a foothold for extra points. Squirm your way up the seemingly interminable squeeze. Use some chimney voodoo to get from the left side of the corner to the right, and once again resist the urge to escape to the light.

Worm your way further and further until you are reborn from the rock, just below the roof on P1 of Betty.

Rap off and go take a shower.

Protection

standard rack, headlamp, clothes you don't mind getting dirty, an adventurous attitude

Photos

Ben Hoste
Brooklyn, NY
 
Ben Hoste   Brooklyn, NY
 
I can't believe you added this as a route! More of a variation I think. A memorable climb, but not worth repeating. ha! Oct 14, 2017