Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,118 total · 26/month
Shared By: Joel Ryan on Dec 7, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

  • This route has surely been climbed before, so someone please speak up if they have name or FA information. I gave it a 5.easy grade, but this thing is really unrateable.

This is a true odyssey into the belly of the Gunks. Not for the faint of heart, nor the large of gut.

Start between RMC/Jane and Raubenheimer Special. Head up the blocky face towards the chimney until you are a few feet above the bottom of the chimney. Keep your follower in mind while you traverse right into the chimney, staying above the floor for full value. With a sporting attitude and decent chimney technique, you can make it all the way to a sharp corner without touching the ground. Make a belay and bring up your perplexed follower.

Resist the temptation to walk towards the light; your journey is not over. Mentally prepare yourself for the battle ahead and make sure you rack on one side so you don't get caught on your gear, though I can't remember which side that is. Start up the hand crack in the corner, using your belayer's head as a foothold for extra points. Squirm your way up the seemingly interminable squeeze. Use some chimney voodoo to get from the left side of the corner to the right, and once again resist the urge to escape to the light.

Worm your way further and further until you are reborn from the rock, just below the roof on P1 of Betty.

Rap off and go take a shower.

Protection

standard rack, headlamp, clothes you don't mind getting dirty, an adventurous attitude

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