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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Kerr and Norton Smithe, 1955
Page Views: 7,624 total, 63/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


246 Opinions

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Description

You haven't really climbed it unless you've gotten inside the chimney and done the "belly roll"!

P1: Climb the wide crack until it leans leftward and opens into a squeeze chimney. Dive in there and worm your way upward (your belayer will die laughing; make sure they don't have a camera) to easier ground. Continue up past a corner, and belay on the ledge. (5.4, 70ft.)

P2: Go up the short, right-facing corner, then up past a crack to the top. (5.2, 50ft.)

Descend via rappel, Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Location

A short walk past the Überfall, between the popular climbs Dennis and Jackie. Look for a body-width crack that leans to the left.

Protection

standard rack
LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
Have yet to climb more than Belly Roll for multi pitch here, but I've taken two trips up this route. The first time was fun. The second time, even more so. I just enjoy the torture of it, I guess.

Felt safe the entire way up. There are the three cruxes moving up that might be more suited for taller climbers, but our two short companions had no problems with moving up them.

Great climb. I may be inexperienced to the gunks, but so far this is a great climb.

#hatersgonnahate Jul 5, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.4
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.4
This is the first climb I ever onsighted and it was quite scary at the time.. I'm still not a fan of the "belly scum crack" Nov 1, 2015
Nick Hamilton
Philadelphia
 
Nick Hamilton   Philadelphia
 
The second pitch is a joyful romp, but come on Dick Williams, 3 stars?? Absurdity. Sep 24, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Yesterday I did the belly roll on my back. I stuck my left leg inside and shimmied my whole body in the offwidth...I grabbed the rail in front of my face and pulled right through. It was the easiest way to do it.

Is it just me or is the move off the ledge up the flake harder than a 5.4? I swear, I have yet to find the 5.4 move. Granted, I am a shorty, but, really...should I have to work so hard on a 5.4? I lead Double Clutch (5.9) later in the day and I found that move so much easier and less scary.


The second pitch is oodles of fun, even though it's short it's well worth doing. Rap off the Jackie tree to the GT ledge, rap again to the ground. Jun 9, 2014
kenr  
Fun climb -- except for the (short) belly roll section.
(maybe I didn't get far enough inside it? - perhaps I'll try that next time). P2 is one of the better 5.2-5.3 pitches in the Gunks.

Sharon hates "the roll" even more than I do, so I've suggested that she just bring prusiks and "aid" her way up that short section, so she can enjoy the remainder. One time she avoided "the roll" by actually traversing way left and climbing the friction ramp on the Dennis route -- but I have a feeling she was pretty unprotected for a bad "swing" if she had fallen on that.
Jun 13, 2012
Opening "Belly Roll" move is much easier if you try to squeeze deeply into "it" instead of slithering half in half out over the top. Second pitch is short and not technicaly demanding(few 5.5 moves)but lots of fun for beginner/intermediate climbers. Apr 19, 2012
Steve0  
Fun climbing, the P1 "Belly Roll" was an interesting experience, much like the grey dick says, you haven't climbed the Belly Roll unless you've gotten into the off-width on P1. Sep 19, 2011
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
 
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
 
This climb is way more fun from the ground. That was the most awkward lead experience I've ever had. But I would really like to make/watch some of my friends go up it. Oct 26, 2010
Offwidths are definitely not my favorite, but good experience anyway. Be sure not to carry too much crap on your harness through the offwidth - you will find yourself using more energy than needed to squeeze through it. Find your feet inside the offwidth - good experience for the newer climber. Second pitch starts off with a challenging slightly overhanging left-facing corner and not great feet. Good challenge for new leaders. May 23, 2010
Greg Sudlow
PA
  5.4
Greg Sudlow   PA
  5.4
While the short (and not so great) first pitch has the "Bell Roll" move, its the easy but exposed second pitch that gives this climb its star power. Enjoy the fun jug haul to the top but make sure to back up those old pins! May 14, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.4
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.4
3 Stars in the Grey Dick ~ You've got to be kidding me! Aug 10, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I climb all the way into the belly roll onto my belly, then somehow, I manage to turn around onto my back and I exit the OW. This is a fun climb that has a second crux at the 1/2 way mark (great hands, no feet). Second pitch is just as fun. Apr 18, 2009