Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: FA: Bill Goldner, early 60's. FFA: John Stannard, 1973
Page Views: 7,014 total · 37/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details


Perhaps a double entendre in the name? I am not sure. A good route with poor gear in places, it is unique. I found this to be a rough introduction to the Gunks.

The route starts 15' left of P38, a more-popular climb with better protection.

P1: Climb up off of a boulder on unprotected moves (5.10-) to gain a crack, which is climbed to a horizontal. Follow the horizontal left for a few body lengths to a rift in the small overhang and climb up to some roofs above. Wander left through some small roofs, then up and right up a face to reach the top of the cliff.

Descend via Radcliffe just to climbers' right, or the Uberfall Descent.


Not that great. I felt pretty runout in a few places on insecure moves. Falling would be a pretty bad idea. Take a light rack with a normal range of nuts and cams and see what you can tinker in.

Double ropes are useful.