Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: FA: Bill Goldner, early 60's. FFA: John Stannard, 1973
Page Views: 6,460 total · 36/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


80 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Perhaps a double entendre in the name? I am not sure. A good route with poor gear in places, it is unique. I found this to be a rough introduction to the Gunks.

The route starts 15' left of P38, a more-popular climb with better protection.

P1: Climb up off of a boulder on unprotected moves (5.10-) to gain a crack, which is climbed to a horizontal. Follow the horizontal left for a few body lengths to a rift in the small overhang and climb up to some roofs above. Wander left through some small roofs, then up and right up a face to reach the top of the cliff.

Descend via Radcliffe just to climbers' right, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Not that great. I felt pretty runout in a few places on insecure moves. Falling would be a pretty bad idea. Take a light rack with a normal range of nuts and cams and see what you can tinker in.

Double ropes are useful.

Photos