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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ralph Clapp and Grant Oakley
Page Views: 5,973 total, 51/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb cracks and a short corner to a small overhang, then climb right to the top of the detached block. Or - scramble up the blocks leaning against the face to the right, to reach the same place (this was the original route). From that stance, head a few moves up a crack (crux), then move left to a small ledge and tree.

P2 - From the belay tree, step up and left, then climb the nice face over a small bulge (crux) and up a small right-facing corner to a nice ledge and another tree.

P3 - Step left and climb the nice face past some old fixed pins (no need to clip, plenty of cam placements) with excellent gear to the top.

There may be a rap station at the top. There is a bolted rappel line to the right over Betty, or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Location

Below some broken cracks and a partially detached block, just a bit right and down from Jackie and Classic.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. G.
That alternative start (up the stacked blocks to the right) is in fact the original line of the climb, and is A LOT easier than the crack/cramped move start that 90% of folks seem to do nowadays. Apr 6, 2016
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
The slings at the top of Pitch 3 are gone, and the tat on pitch 2 looks questionable. Apr 13, 2015
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.5
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.5
Nice climb, I found it mostly pretty easy, but a few moves on the first pitch seemed intimidating until I did them- partly because the completely detached (but apparently stable) blocks were unnerving.

P2 wasn't bad, I got a tricam or two in before the Piton, which looked solid and I clipped with a screamer (If you're relying on pitons as key pieces, you really should use screamers, they're light and cheap and makes it so much safer- even if the piton fails, it brings you closer to your next piece with a much softer fall). I'm 5'10" with long arms, maybe it would be harder for shorter people. P3 is a ladder, 5.4 at most, just traverse left and follow the pitons up.

Two raps with a 70m rope- From the top, and the next belay tree. Slings at the top tree were borderline and could use new webbing (As of 10/26/2014). I added a fresh sling to the tree below that, the old ones are garbage but I left them for padding. Oct 27, 2014
dragons
MWV, NH
 
dragons   MWV, NH
 
5'0" here. I led P2 today, after taking beta photos of gear placements when following my partner (I've uploaded one for those who may be interested).

I was super-cautious on this route because of the broken ankle report (thanks to Stephanie for the warning). There's a decent toehold near the initial piton, and a couple similar sized holds up about 5 to 6 feet left of that, close to the slot where I put a Metolius Master Cam 0. Had to pull up to check that it fit okay... and it was set perfectly. So, it can be done - just be cautious, all you shorties! Jun 23, 2014
JSH

JSH    
Hope it heals quickly, Stephanie! May 10, 2013
I took a lead fall from the second pitch last Saturday, busted my ankle, and now can't walk. I have a few comments maybe worth noting:

1. I fell from pitch two at the crux above the piton (from the tree, the piton to the left) THE PITON HELD MY LEAD FALL. Maybe shouldn't always be trusted, but just thought I'd throw it out there that it was legit. I took a good look at it before I clipped it and thought it looked ok. Agree with previous comment, I wasn't able to find any good gear after the piton...

2. Maybe I agree with whoever noted this climb rating is "height dependent" I am 5'4" and have lead several 5.6 climbs in the Gunks, but I was on two crimpy handholds and was trying to smear up with my foot. I couldn't reach any bigger holds. The rock on that crux is kind of polished and my foot slipped while I was smearing, and I took a whipper. May 8, 2013
P1: The block in the middle of pitch 1 does look a bit sketchy, I wouldn't put pro behind it and wouldn't have stepped on it if I didn't have to. Otherwise kind of interesting-ish moves I suppose.

P2: Belaying at the tree isn't a terribly comfortable belay, but I think I would've had severe rope drag trying to link the first 2 pitches. I hate having to trust a pin, and I was able to sort of get a 00 Mastercam in next to the pin, but I didn't want to fall on either. Was suprised to have to pull the bulge on the crimpers on a 5.5-. Did Jackie the day before and found that much easier.

P3: Only 5.3, but I found it a tad awkward, a short run out spot, and not very exciting.

My girlfriend didn't like the climb whatsoever. May 1, 2011
Optimistic
New Paltz
 
Optimistic   New Paltz
 
This is a cool route, all the way to the top. I disagree with a prior comment: I would link P1 and P2. If you are belaying at the P1 tree and the leader falls off the crux move, he/she will hit both the belayer and the tree, most likely, and do so with about 10 feet of rope out. Safer to add a few long slings on P1 to deal with the drag, and just cruise on through to the P2 belay. Plus that little tree would prefer you leave it alone and just back up the pin above with a 2" cam.

Pretty committing crux move, too. The guy ahead of us backed off. I wouldn't want this to be my first 5.5 lead, for sure! Beautiful climb, though... Sep 18, 2010
doligo
  5.5 PG13
doligo  
  5.5 PG13
Williams gives P2 a G rating, maybe it was wet when I climbed it, but even with pins, the bulgey crux move was a tiny bit run-out, IMO. And the flake on P1 under the roof looks like it's not attached to anything - it was wet, so I kinda had to use ever so gently. I would avoid using it all costs when it's dry! Nov 17, 2009
losbill
 
losbill  
 
I agree. Excellent lead for someone new to the Gunks, a little overhang, a bit of a thoughtful, sequency bulge, and a pleasant grab & haul finish. You can run P1 and P2 together. However for the new leader I would recommend doing it in 3 pitches, belaying at the small pine at the end of P1. This will lessen the chance of rope drag issues. Aug 24, 2008
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
There's a lot of 5.5 for the climb. Definitely worth it. Can link first and second pitches. Aug 24, 2008