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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960
Page Views: 10,720 total, 75/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.

P1: The crux moves are right off the deck, with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

P2: Follow a dihedral above and right from the belay, to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor (2015). It's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Variation starts: there are several ways to access the upper part of the route while avoiding the crux start. It's possible to start on Jackie and traverse right above the tree. You can also start low on the face between Jackie and the crux start, and wander up a path of least resistance. Both of these variations join the rest of Classic just below a short, bottomless left-facing corner. These variations are described in a photo.

Protection

Standard Rack
kenr  
The variation start is nice for some leaders who find the normal Classic start scary (and ankle-breaking dangerous?) but don't want to stick-clip the first piton. Or for some followers who just find the "slippery" opening sequence discouraging, and would rather climb the whole great first pitch at a more consistent difficulty grade.

It protected reasonably well with a standard range of cams and perhaps also a long sling as a directional for followers. Aug 25, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Yes Ken! I do that start all the time.. It's 5.easy and protectable! It definitely makes for a more enjoyable start to Classic! Jul 26, 2017
kenr  
I heard there's an alternate (Non-Classic) easier, less "slippery" start, from a ways downhill left, then join the main route at the end of the first traverse.
. . . (Did not hear about protect-ability). Apr 12, 2017
A variation on the second pitch - there's a bush/tree low in the corner that's getting big enough to be annoying. To stay in the corner, you'd pass this on the right. But instead, go past it on the left and climb the arete to the top. Superb position, great gear, and a bit more challenging (at one particular spot) than the corner. Sep 29, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Great route with awesome moves and a great view of Millbrook! Feb 13, 2014
wivanoff
Northeast, USA
wivanoff   Northeast, USA
I heard someone replaced the second pin on Classic in March/April 2013
Link Apr 9, 2013
David Ford
Cambridge, MA
 
David Ford   Cambridge, MA
 
The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off. Jul 18, 2011
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
Don't fall in the first 25 ft. Otherwise, super fun route. The roof at the top is Classic! Aug 23, 2009
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8+
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8+
This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7 Sep 2, 2007
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree. Apr 9, 2006