Avg: 3 from 377 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960|
|Page Views:||13,693 total · 77/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.
P1: The crux moves are right off the deck, with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
P2: Follow a dihedral above and right from the belay, to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.
Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor. If it's a busy day, it's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.
Variation starts: there are several ways to access the upper part of the route while avoiding the crux start. It's possible to start on Jackie and traverse right above the tree. You can also start low on the face between Jackie and the crux start, and wander up a path of least resistance. Both of these variations join the rest of Classic just below a short, bottomless left-facing corner. These variations are described in a photo.