Avg: 3 from 284 votes
Routes in b. Jackie and friends
|5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+|
|His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R|
|Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13|
|Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960|
|Page Views:||10,720 total, 75/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006|
DescriptionThis climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.
Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.
P1: The crux moves are right off the deck, with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
P2: Follow a dihedral above and right from the belay, to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.
Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor (2015). It's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.
Variation starts: there are several ways to access the upper part of the route while avoiding the crux start. It's possible to start on Jackie and traverse right above the tree. You can also start low on the face between Jackie and the crux start, and wander up a path of least resistance. Both of these variations join the rest of Classic just below a short, bottomless left-facing corner. These variations are described in a photo.