Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960
Page Views: 11,694 total · 76/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006 with updates from kenr
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


309 Opinions

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Description

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.

P1: The crux moves are right off the deck, with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

P2: Follow a dihedral above and right from the belay, to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor. If it's a busy day, it's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Variation starts: there are several ways to access the upper part of the route while avoiding the crux start. It's possible to start on Jackie and traverse right above the tree. You can also start low on the face between Jackie and the crux start, and wander up a path of least resistance. Both of these variations join the rest of Classic just below a short, bottomless left-facing corner. These variations are described in a photo.

Protection

Standard Rack
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree. Apr 9, 2006
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8+
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8+
This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7 Sep 2, 2007
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
Don't fall in the first 25 ft. Otherwise, super fun route. The roof at the top is Classic! Aug 23, 2009
David Ford
Cambridge, MA
 
David Ford   Cambridge, MA
 
The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off. Jul 18, 2011
wivanoff
Northeast, USA
wivanoff   Northeast, USA
I heard someone replaced the second pin on Classic in March/April 2013
Link Apr 9, 2013
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Great route with awesome moves and a great view of Millbrook! Feb 13, 2014
A variation on the second pitch - there's a bush/tree low in the corner that's getting big enough to be annoying. To stay in the corner, you'd pass this on the right. But instead, go past it on the left and climb the arete to the top. Superb position, great gear, and a bit more challenging (at one particular spot) than the corner. Sep 29, 2016
kenr  
I heard there's an alternate (Non-Classic) easier, less "slippery" start, from a ways downhill left, then join the main route at the end of the first traverse.
. . . (Did not hear about protect-ability). Apr 12, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+
Yes Ken! I do that start all the time.. It's 5.easy and protectable! It definitely makes for a more enjoyable start to Classic! Jul 26, 2017
kenr  
The variation start is nice for some leaders who find the normal Classic start scary (and ankle-breaking dangerous?) but don't want to stick-clip the first piton. Or for some followers who just find the "slippery" opening sequence discouraging, and would rather climb the whole great first pitch at a more consistent difficulty grade.

It protected reasonably well with a standard range of cams and perhaps also a long sling as a directional for followers. Aug 25, 2017