Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960
Page Views: 13,693 total · 77/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006 · Updates
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.

P1: The crux moves are right off the deck, with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

P2: Follow a dihedral above and right from the belay, to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor. If it's a busy day, it's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Variation starts: there are several ways to access the upper part of the route while avoiding the crux start. It's possible to start on Jackie and traverse right above the tree. You can also start low on the face between Jackie and the crux start, and wander up a path of least resistance. Both of these variations join the rest of Classic just below a short, bottomless left-facing corner. These variations are described in a photo.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos