Avg: 2.6 from 58 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dick Williams, Dave Craft, and Dick DuMais|
|Page Views:||4,233 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This is a great route, often open, but it does share the P1 belay of Betty.
P1 - Climb the bulge, then go up to and follow a thin crack that diagonals left (crux) and up to a ledge and belay tree.
P2 - Move up to an overhang then diagonal right on the face past a right-facing flake/corner to another overhang and fixed pin. Move right some more and up a crack (crux) and face a bolted anchor (shared with Matinee).
P3 - Up right on easy ledges, then up the slightly runout face, aiming for the bolt (replaced in 2015; the book says 5.8 R for this section). Tricams and RPs can be used if you are old school and eschew the bolt. Pull the small overhang (crux), and up the face to the top.
Rappel from the bolted anchor (2015) atop Betty, to climber's left, or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.