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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Craft, and Dick DuMais
Page Views: 3,250 total, 28/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

The Williams' Guide says to beware of the "R" rated 5.8 section before the P3 crux, but I did not find it to be too bad.

This is a great route, often open, but it does share the P1 belay of Betty.

P1 - Climb the bulge, then go up to and follow a thin crack that diagonals left (crux) and up to a ledge and belay tree.

P2 - Move up to an overhang then diagonal right on the face past a right-facing flake/corner to another overhang and fixed pin. Move right some more and up a crack (crux) and face to the belay/rap tree (shared with Matinee).

P3 - Up right on easy ledges, then up the slightly runout face, aiming for the bolt (replaced in 2015; the book says 5.8 R for this section). Tricams and RPs can be used if you are old school and eschew the bolt. Pull the small overhang (crux), and up the face to the top.

Rappel from the bolted anchor (2015) atop Betty, to climber's left, or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Location

At a nose/bulge, 20 feet right of the wide crack of Betty.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Tri cams essential if you want to be old school and not clip the P3 bolt.

Photos

Today the bolt on the last pitch of The Blackout was replaced with a new, safer one, by Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers Coalition.
Jul 9, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9-
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9-
The roof directly above the belay on P2 can be pulled directly but the pro is bad and rock questionable. Better to scamper left around the first one, make a awkward and reachy move to the right, and then continue up moving R past the other 'hangs. Jun 16, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The description seems to indicate that you go right around the both roofs on P2. Is this correct? I found it seriously sketchy on the right side of the first one. Tough moves and no pro. I backtracked and went around the left side. Then hand traversed under the second roof to its right side. This mentions the hand traverse and you can see the first overhang beneath her.

The Grey Dick seems a bit muddled too. Jun 15, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9-
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9-
The first two pitches are fun with a few balancy moves. If you're confident leading 5.8, the run out to the bolt on P3 shouldn't be much of a problem. There is a good hold to clip from but you definitely wouldn't want to blow it there. I thought the crux roof was pretty easy for Gunks 5.9 but really fun nonetheless. Also, we climbed under and directly out of the first roof on P2. It was fun as hell but I thought the rock was somewhat questionable. Nov 7, 2012
A Terray
San Diego, CA
 
A Terray   San Diego, CA
 
P3 5.8R section was not bad. I got a green alien in a little left of the line - made the runout to the bolt seem a little more safe. May 25, 2011
Fixed the description. I always went to the Betty tree, then up the Betty corner and on from there. Seemed more fun, but I'll submit to the majority. Sep 15, 2010
There is actually a tree that is in the middle of the first pitch of Betty and acts as a good belay for the second pitch of the Blackout. I would think that is the belay tree that is being mentioned in the description and not the belay tree that is at the top of the first pitch of Betty. That second pitch of the Blackout is a fun and sneaky little pitch of 5.7. Sep 10, 2010
If you go up to the P1 belay tree on Betty (as described here), you've gone too high. Sep 9, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Found P1 to be lackluster, ran it together with P2. P2 was exciting and fun, a nice traverse leads to the tree/belay. P3 has an unprotectable scramble up ledges to the face. Climb the face (no pro) and get to the bolt. Clip it, back it up and pull an easy 9 roof. This climb was better than I expected. Walk left to the Betty belay. Aug 16, 2009