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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ted & Ann Church, 1955
Page Views: 5,596 total, 40/month
Shared By: JSH on Jun 1, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Pink Laurel is a sunny and warm route, great for winter days. It uses quite a variety of climbing techniques to ascend the obvious left-facing orange and pink corner, just to the right of Classic.

P1: Start just right of Classic, and climb up the offwidthy ramp on the right to a stance at the bottom of a chimney. Find a way up (crux) into the main corner system, then follow the corner up through the steep but relatively easy chimney sections above, to the big ledge. 5.9, 80 ft.

You can build a belay in the corner, or traverse ~25 feet left to belay at the shared bolt anchor.

P2: Climb through a long flake system located on the right, up the corner, past another roof to an arete, and head to the trees.

P1 and P2 can be run together, but consider that the crux is quite low; between noise from the road and a set-back belay, it's unlikely that you'll hear your follower if s/he has trouble.

Descend by rappel over Classic, or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard rack. Gear is pumpy but plentiful through the crux, and you won't need anything large.
Joel Ryan
New York, New York
 
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
 
Fixed anchor is crap and should be cut. Absolute tat connecting unequalized pieces when the Jackie bolted rappel is a 15 foot ledge walk away. It serves no purpose, and I would have cut it myself if it weren't getting dark. Oct 26, 2016
There's currently a fixed anchor at the top of pitch 2. Eliminates the need to traverse over to the anchor for Jackie and Classic Oct 26, 2014
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.9
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.9
Such a great climb, too bad for all the greased/polished footholds.
The alcove exit on pitch 1 is easily protected with a couple BD #.75 cams in the roof of the alcove. Sep 22, 2014
I think humidity adds a full grade to this climb. It seemed easy on a cool, crisp day and nearly impossible during summer heat. Sep 14, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
The crux is very polished. It makes the moves out of the chimney that much harder. ONce you are through the crux, the climbing eases off significantly. I am not a fan of the polished rock...

I just did it again today (9/22/12) and I still hate this climb. I am just not a fan. I don't think I stem enough and I just burl through the moves. I did enjoy P2(v). Sep 14, 2009
Packs quite a punch for a 5.8 because it is a solid 5.9. Jul 16, 2009
slim

  5.8+
slim    
  5.8+
yeah, the rock is pretty smooth and slippery. if it is wet or mossy, i can imagine it being a bit un-nerving. you gotta admit though, for 5.8 it packs a bit of "are you sure this is gonna go at 5.8?.". Jul 2, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
I don't quite agree that this is a classic - at least at the moment, it is rather mossy and slimy. Maybe in a drier year it's a classic. Jul 1, 2009
slim

  5.8+
slim    
  5.8+
another route that, if you are new to the gunks, will make you say "are you sure about this?", but it all comes together, brilliantly. you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a classic route around here. Jun 8, 2009
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
damn, my book said 5.8
seemed pretty hard for a 5.8
safe and fun route Apr 21, 2008
Risi  
Don't miss the nice and steep second pitch! There is only one 5.9 move on a short traverse to the left below the second roof. Long slings or double ropes are helpful. Oct 15, 2007
JSH

JSH    
(beta alert >>) hand jam(s) help a lot. Sep 2, 2007