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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Laura Brant, 1973
Page Views: 1,735 total · 16/month
Shared By: Kostas K on Sep 23, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

The crux on this route is close to the start, where the climber must move right after climbing a thin vertical crack. It's certainly harder for shorter climbers. Higher up, you can exit right out of the second overhang to join RMC, or continue up the corner to join Ape Call. A solid Gunks 5.9.

Location

Left facing corner 10 ft left of RMC, outside a large chimney.

Protection

It's possible to TR from the pine at the end of P1 of RMC.
The crux seemed like it would be hard to protect if leading.

Photos

Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
 
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
 
Now that the pin is gone from the initial crack this should be rated R. The leader needs to make committing (balance) moves to get the higher crack hold and fiddle with gear. The only other protection is to the right and below the leaders feet, with the potential for a ground fall.

Not recommended for a leader breaking into Gunks 5.9's... Jun 22, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
A very fun and often overlooked climb. Even without the piton in the corner, there is no way this is R. Good pro at the start and good (but strenuous) small nuts up the tiny seam through the crux. Worth doing.

DL May 11, 2011
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b PG13
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b PG13
If you're under 5'8", you'll certainly have fun with this one. Nov 1, 2015
Systematic
  5.10b PG13
Systematic  
  5.10b PG13
TRd this. 2 cruxes. Lower one is awkward and grunty. Upper crux is a really nice sequence. It's probably PG13 but the gear for the lower crux is small and would be awkward to place. It's 9+ in the sense that anything harder than a 9 is a 9+...

Not recommended for a leader breaking into Gunks 5.10's... :) Apr 20, 2016

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